There are few places in town where you can show up and relax, knowing your meal is going to be understatedly brilliant. Sotto Sotto is that place. It begins with wine, and a staff that can chat about it intelligently and breezily, as if discussing the merits of a collection of old friends. Unabashedly Italian and composed with food in mind, it's one of the more delightful lists in the city. A light, elegant touch in the kitchen allows even the heaviest dishes to seem almost weightless. Starters range from ethereal to downright robust, and risottos are downright masterful.
Price: $$$ ($20-$30)
Entrées: $16-$38. Full bar. Street and valet parking.