The rectangular design of Bob Amick's Atlantic Station baby is very New York in a self-contained way, and a welcome deviation from the frenetic pubescence of One Midtown Kitchen and Two Urban Licks. Nick Oltarsh is the executive chef in charge of forward-thinking combinations. Servers can be out to lunch, but dreamy desserts and a sure hand in the kitchen make for a blessedly grown-up experience.
Price: $$$ ($20-$30)