Livingston chef Zeb Stevenson is a hugely talented and nuanced cook. His creativity shines in some of Livingston's dishes – a house-smoked duck breast with roasted baby turnips, hazelnuts and kumquat is one of those dishes that brims with treat after treat, from nutty to meaty to caramelized veggie sweetness to psychedelic citrus zing. But Stevenson struggles with other aspects of the menu, and sometimes, the hotel restaurant encroaches too obviously into the repertoire of the kitchen. And as beautiful as the bar is, the drinks are not at all worthy of their surroundings. A little nuance, an across-the-board dedication to quality, and a decent cocktail program would push this restaurant to fulfill its destiny.
Price: $$$ ($20-$30)