Falling in love again with an old favorite restaurant is a beautiful thing. The spark reignited with uni nigiri topped with a raw quail egg, which melted on the tongue like an oceanic creamsicle. Japanese fried chicken arrives on a staggeringly large platter. Bronzed nuggets of chicken have no trace of oiliness, and the marinade imparts slight undertones of soy. Pristine slices of sashimi were soft, with a touch of resistance, and more protein than water. You can order à la carte, but the assortment platter presents a bounty of surprisingly affordable and beautiful seafood. The decor is minimal, but the space always feels like home.