JCT Kitchen struggles with the very real challenge of how to gussy up Southern food without offending die-hard traditionalists. The beige and cream-colored room, with its appealing industrial patio space, represents the urban/country dichotomy of Atlanta's personality. For the most part, the food follows suit. Standouts include fried oysters over creamed spinach and killer desserts such as the dreamy tapioca pudding. Gracious service and a good wine program make up for the occasional misstep in the kitchen.