I agree that Ms. Zyman's harsh review is a little heavy-handed. I've been to Hankook multiple times myself and have not ever found the food to be the bad, bland, oily, stale, or un-palette-pleasing fare that she makes it out to be. Yes, the food could have a bit more punch and I wish the flavors, especially in the marinated proteins, were more bold. However, I've always chaulked this up to Hankook trying to play it safe to the taste buds (vs. sensory shock) in order to get people comfortable with what they're trying to do with this particular concept. I'd imagine that, given that this area is so starved for ethnic diversity when it comes to the eatery options and Lee's tentativeness in regard to Korean cooking, that it's been a difficult decision trying to figure out how far to go on the taste scale. I happen to find their tofu tacos delicious and have been back for the bimbimbap multiple times. I really think Ms. Zyman should give this place another try - it really sounds like she came across this place on a fluke occasion.
Creative Loafing Atlanta
Powered by Foundation