Predictability. It's the bane of our new restaurants. That is, most of them. But the huge exception recently is One Eared Stag. While other new places were content to stick with the safety of burgers or Southern or pizza or ... burgers, chef Robert Phalen and his crew at the Stag dipped into Spain, skirted Latin America, touched on Italy and landed firmly in New American cuisine tinged with the kink of a truly inventive chef. Organic watermelon served with house-cured lomo, powdered guajillo, mint and Thomasville tomme cheese. Burrata with chili, lemon and pea tendrils. The menu trains us to expect to be surprised at every turn. And for that we're beyond grateful. 1029 Edgewood Ave. 404-525-4479. oneearedstag.com.