We'd rather have chopsticks poked in our eyes than try to make this selection. Atlanta is full of very good Chinese restaurants and we should have separate categories for the numerous mainland China regions as well as Korean-Chinese fusion options. But we find ourselves returning time and again to LITTLE SZECHUAN
. Specializing in one of the world's spiciest cuisines from the Szechuan province, this restaurant serves our favorite of fried anchovies with peanuts and hot peppers. Even the slightly sour jellyfish salad is palatable here. Chicken dumplings in hot sauce and moo shu vegetables are tops, too, though many people dote on the tofu dishes.
5091-C Buford Highway, Doraville, 770-451-0192.