The sign might say Madison but you'd swear it should read Mayberry. This little timewarp of a town, just 50 minutes due east on I-20, is a pastiche of antebellum architecture, antique shops and towering shade trees. In other words, tourist trap central. For its current affluence, Madison has Joshua Hill to thank. Hill, an early foe of secession, convinced Gen. Sherman to spare the village from flames. So now, when you stroll past real estate you could never afford, remember two things: Always stay on the good side of the man with the torch, and eat at Old Murray's for the best fried chicken and collards in the state.