If the last time you ate at SOTTO SOTTO
the sound level split your ears and the service had just a tad bit too much 'tude, we've got good news for you: Things have changed. The rambunctious crowds have died down, particularly on weekdays, leaving you free to converse with your tablemates and dine on the most succinctly composed Italian offerings in town. Risotto with caramelized onions and 12-year-old balsamic vinegar is a marvel of mouth-watering complexity. It's hard to find a dull pasta dish and the wood-roasted fish, a house specialty, is as subtle and tantalizing as ever. Servers offer amiable smiles these days. Should you happen to arrive at prime time, vie for one of the five quiet tables outside on the patio.
313 N. Highland Ave, 404-523-6678. www.sottosottorestaurant.com