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Best Japanese and Best Sushi 

By now, most devotees of SOTO's rhapsodically original cuisine know the drill: Secure a place at the bar, scrutinize the nightly specials for intriguing concoctions (typically involving such diverse ingredients as sea urchin mousse, lobster sashimi and mango), and settle in for a slow-paced but deeply satisfying couple of hours. Ambience is nil, so absorb yourself in conversation over sake or set your attention on Chef Sotohiro Kosugi standing center stage, creating his tiny works of genius with the concentration of a Zen master.

3330 Piedmont Road. 404-233-2005.

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