TAQUERIA LA OAXAQUEÑA serves some of the most soulful Mexican food weve ever had the good fortune to shovel in our mouths. The draw may be the tlayuda a jumbo-sized, griddled tortilla spread with bean paste and piled with a collage of meat, string cheese and avocado but the more we eat here, the more we marvel at the subtle finesse employed at every turn. Salsas, fetched from an unassuming salad bar, are extravagantly complex. Freshly made corn tortillas exude toasty benevolence. Prices are preposterously low. So whats the catch? You have to drive to Jonesboro to eat here (it is so worth it).