Which restaurant has changed the face of Atlanta dining the most since opening in the past year? The restaurant that finally brought us world-class pizza. ANTICO PIZZA NAPOLETANA had more of an impact on the deliciousness of our city than all the New Southern, farm-to-table places combined. There's no one thing that explains why Antico is so great, but there are plenty of things worth mentioning: the ovens and flour and tomatoes and workers imported from Italy; the blaring opera music; the convivial seating arrangements, where you might have to eat beside strangers at a metal table in the kitchen. But oh, when those pizzas arrive with their hot, crusty, thin, perfectly balanced crusts, and their tangy, sweet tomato sauce, that's when Antico becomes akin to a religious experience. It's the church of pizza. Consider us converted. 1093 Hemphill Ave. 404-724-2333. www.anticopizza.it.