With martini menus cropping up with alarming frequency, it's getting harder and harder to return to drinking reality. But do the pungently sweet peach and apple concoctions necessarily sully the olive-tinged water? Let's just say any ingredients beyond gin or vodka, vermouth and olive juice spell heresy. Enter VIRGINIA'S
. Although the bartenders at the French brothel-inspired restaurant will surely make you a specialty 'tini if you ask, they're too posh to advertise them. This is the kind of place, with its soaring brick walls, stained glass, velvet drapery and plush settees, where a true classic belongs. The bar may only stay open until 10 on school nights, 11 on weekends, but Virginia's martini is so divine it's worth an early pit stop. And anyway, nothing good ever happens when you drink martinis after midnight.
112 Krog St., 404-827-9005. www.virginiasrestaurant.com