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Best place to eat your veggies: Miller Union

Staff Pick

The simplicity of chef Steven Satterfield's food at Miller Union can be unnerving. Consider the restaurant's most talked about dish: a lip-smacking bowl of celery cream topped with a runny egg and served with crusty bread for dipping. Few things benefit more from simplicity than veggies, which happen to be Satterfield's specialty. One late-summer menu featured a stunning salad of supple tomatoes, lightly pickled cucumber spears, and mondo-size blackberries in a pool of tangy crème fraîche. Tiny leaves of fresh tarragon added a whisper of licorice to each pickley bite. A section of Miller Union's menu is mainly devoted to veggie side dishes. You must try them. There are accompaniments such as thick, snappy green beans tossed with threads of fresh basil and fried okra encased in crackly cornmeal crust. If there's corn on the menu, order it. A recent version came in the form of sweet, crispy kernels laced with traces of buttery cream and tossed with meaty oyster mushrooms. The vegetables on Miller Union's revolving menu are plucked straight from the season's harvest and almost always manage to steal the show.

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