"Bar" comes before "deli" in the name of this brave little establishment, and for good reason. A charming Italian restaurant in the respectable hours, a boisterous beatnik headquarters when the lights dim, NONI'S BAR & DELI has administered new life to a storied street. After two years, its hipster hangout status is no longer top secret. Without TVs or video games, it's sleek and sophisticated, all while keeping a Sicilian grandmother's touch. And the Saturday night dance parties have become the sweatiest and most talked about in the city. If only grandma's cookbook called for all those PBRs and shots of Jameson. 357 Edgewood Ave. 404-343-1808 www.nonisdeli.com.