Until the state builds the much-needed Brain Train from Atlanta to Athens, you can be excused for not wanting to stray too far from home to gorge. But Hugh Acheson's FIVE AND TEN is worth the haul. The self-taught and celebrated chef mashes Old World cuisine with New South flavor and changes the menu daily. He still, however, manages to consistently deliver unmatched dishes such as grilled Berkshire French-cut pork chop with pickled pears and cabbage, bronzed Gulf redfish with lemon emulsion, and “Ants on a Log in a Bog.” That's not a nursery rhyme it's celery veloute soup with poached currants and cashew butter on celery. Word to the wise: If you make the trip, be sure to check UGA's schedule. This place is booked when the Greeks hold date nights and students dine on their parents' dime.