In an era of "Have you dined with us before, my name is Dawn, let me explain for you what this thing we call a menu is, and in fact let me read it aloud to you because condescending to you and pretending you're dumb is the new great service!" it's a great relief to be treated like a guest. At La Grotta, that's exactly what they do — treat each person who walks in the door as if he or she is a treasured friend. Waiters are attentive and friendly but not overbearing. They know the menu and the wine list like they wrote it themselves. Forget "no substitutions," La Grotta takes the opposite stance: Want something you don't see on the menu? Waiters make it clear that they'll get you whatever your heart desires, if it is physically possible. At La Grotta, the kitchen, the management and the entire operation is looking to please the customer. It shouldn't be so amazing. But it is. 2637 Peachtree Road. 404-231-1368. lagrottaatlanta.com.