There are about a zillion Thai restaurants in town and most of them taste alike. One notable exception is TAMARIND SEED, owned by chef Nan Niyomkul and her husband, Charlie. (They also operate the glitzier Nan Thai Fine Dining.) What sets chef Nan's cooking apart isn't the dishes themselves. Most of them are classics, such as masaman and panang curries (the green curry is particularly delicious). It's the complexity of sauces and layers of unexpected flavor that distinguishes the food here. There's also an energetic staff and, if you're lucky, Nan might be in the kitchen. The woman is a classy beacon of good feelings, and the food is suffused with her personality.