BISHOKU is the brainchild of Jackie Fukuya-Merkel, the daughter of the former owners of the venerable Sushi Huku in Sandy Springs. Merkel's endeavor is a feminine Japanese restaurant with a long list of handwritten specials that push the teriyaki envelope. Bishoku has started making its own tofu infused with classic ingredients, such as edamame. No tofu dish is more beautiful than her homemade egg tofu topped with an unctuous sliver of uni and served with a tiny spoon. 5920 Roswell Road, Sandy Springs. 404-252-7998. www.bishokusushi.com.