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At this suburban steakhouse modeled on Morton's, Ruth's Chris, Chops and such, the showy surroundings, considerable investment, trained staff and conceptual grandiosity promise much in the way of fine dining, wining and expense-account high times. The promises are mostly kept. Despite salt levels like those of the Dead Sea, prime steaks, lump crab cakes, sumptuous soups and salads are mostly worth the elevated prices asked. Classic white-tablecloth steakhouse where a cigar and scotch wouldn't be out of place.

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Price: $$$ ($20-$30)

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