At approximately $25 for a 750-ml bottle, this one is not for swilling during the Super Bowl. But if your team wins and you bet a lot of money on them, this might be just the thing to celebrate. Brewed in Belgium but carefully aged in France using the “methode Champenoise,” this sparkling beer is best served in a champagne flute, where its fast-rising bubbles can hold a neat little head of foam. Spicy and a bit tart, with a fresh, floral aroma, and a crisp fruity palate of pear and apple, followed by a honey slickness. The spicy hops and effervescent carbonation are lively on the tongue, providing a surprisingly dry finish to a teasingly sweet start. I hope that is not a portent for the coming year.