New American, CL Recommends, Free Parking, Menu, Dining, Restaurant, fine dining, new american, charcuterie, dessert, bar, bars, cocktail, cocktails
Through a driveway labyrinth, into a parking deck, up a few flights, into the elevator, down to the lobby, and through some office/condo hallways, there's an obscure wooden door marked "Local Three." Which means you’re never going to find it if you aren’t looking for it. Local Three owners Todd Mussman and Ryan Turner are masters of casual. Dining, even expensive dining — and Local Three is no bargain basement — is casual enough that customers are invited into the kitchen to pick up their own food during brunch. It's clear chef Chris Hall and his partners are unabashedly fat-friendly and meat-centric, so there's a heaviness that pervades. But Hall does get beyond his affection for philistine flavors, and reaches true elegance.
Falling in love again with an old favorite restaurant is a beautiful thing. The spark reignited with uni nigiri topped with a raw quail egg, which melted on the tongue like an oceanic creamsicle. Japanese fried chicken arrives on a staggeringly large platter. Bronzed nuggets of chicken have no trace of oiliness, and the marinade imparts slight undertones of soy. Pristine slices of sashimi were soft, with a touch of resistance, and more protein than water. You can order à la carte, but the assortment platter presents a bounty of surprisingly affordable and beautiful seafood. The decor is minimal, but the space always feels like home.