Interestingly, for a location marketed so strongly on its lines of sight, one of the most popular drinks -- the Frozen Buschwaker -- isn't tremendous to look at, unless you spring for the $14.95 version with commemorative glass. Then it's a logo to look at. But there are no caramel drizzles, no blue cheese-stuffed olives -- just a lone, precipitously placed pineapple wedge on the rim of the glass and a single straw drawn through the center.
What the milky granita lacks in color, however, it makes up in coconut-pineapple flavor. Perspiring ever so slightly, the glass of frapped ice cream, piña colada, Bacardi light rum, Kahlua and dark creme de cacao coax out your playful side as the breezy blend resembles the daiquiris that helped you lose your lost Mardi Gras weekend.
The Buschwaker fits amid the mod-Americana upholstery of the Sun Dial's cruise ship-like environment. As you happily -- almost greedily -- suck up your sweets, a faint lacing trails down the bowed sides of the hurricane glass. You're hard pressed not to hold it in two hands like a child in an ice cream parlor, tugging at the straw with your mouth till your cheeks go concave in the quest to drain every drop.
Be warned not to drink too many, however: This coy concoction is surprisingly potent. Overindulge and the only dessert you'll get is your just desserts.
-- Tony Ware
210 Peachtree St. 404-589-7506. www.sundialrestaurant.com.
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