Jang Su Jang delivers on Korean cravings 

I must have been Korean in a past life. I crave some form of the cuisine daily. My most recent discovery, Jang Su Jang (3645 Satellite Blvd., Duluth, 678-475-9170), has become a fast favorite.

The restaurant advertises Korean barbecue and tofu on its sign (the rest is in Korean). Both are good, but the tofu makes this spot worth the trek. More specifically, the Soon Tofu dishes, a bubbling tofu stew served in cast-iron bowls alongside a bowl of rice and the customary banchan (assorted side dishes). The beef and kimchee ($8.45) heartily mixes spicy broth with large chunks of fresh, silken tofu, green onion and other ingredients. You are given a raw egg that you crack into the bowl and stir to cook; it adds richness and body to the dish, which you then ladle over the rice.

Tender homemade dumplings (mandoo) that come in both regular and "king" sizes ($9) contain a mixture of pork, beef and kimchee. The king-sized dumplings have artfully formed pleats that prevent them from falling to shreds. The dipping sauce mixes common ingredients (soy sauce, vinegar, etc.), but a careful balance of tang and salt make it exceptional.

Bossam ($12.95) is an obscure dish that comprises chilled pieces of steamed pork belly arranged on a platter with strands of radish coated in thick chile paste, two styles of sliced daikon radish (one curiously spiced pink and the other wasabi flavored) and salted Napa cabbage leaves for wrapping. Eating a cold meat dish may be odd for those accustomed to the barbecued variety, but the crunch of wrappers against the soft pork is a texture lover's (and past-life Korean's) dream.

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