Through a driveway labyrinth, into a parking deck, up a few flights, into the elevator, down to the lobby, and through some office/condo hallways, there's an obscure wooden door marked "Local Three." Which means you’re never going to find it if you aren’t looking for it. Local Three owners Todd Mussman and Ryan Turner are masters of casual. Dining, even expensive dining — and Local Three is no bargain basement — is casual enough that customers are invited into the kitchen to pick up their own food during brunch. It's clear chef Chris Hall and his partners are unabashedly fat-friendly and meat-centric, so there's a heaviness that pervades. But Hall does get beyond his affection for philistine flavors, and reaches true elegance.