Though the food didn't initially live up to expectations — the flavors were often odd, mismatched or bland — ONE. midtown kitchen has improved since it opened in 2009. There's still an outlandish quality to much of chef Drew Van Leuvan's food that works with the restaurant's space and concept. His cooking isn't subtle — fried chicken livers come with honey, pig jowl and candied orange peel, which makes for a tasty jumble of competing sweetness and richness that's a tad overwhelming. In this setting, though, the drama works. Van Leuvan has room to improve, but the overwhelming majority of dishes have nuance and creativity that outweighs the occasional slip-up. Desserts continue to shine, and service, as always, is courteous and professional.
Price: $$-$$$ ($15 and over)
Payment Type: American Express, Mastercard, VISA
Accepted until 7 p.m.