Chef Olivier Gaupin uses the language of farm to table and aims for a Southern theme. Some of the best dishes here are the ones that channel Southern classics. Much of this food would be better if it were toned down, simplified and released from its Euro-centric, or conversely, faux-Southern pretenses. It's a fine line, distinguishing elevation from bastardization. But the food at Eleven lacks honesty, and it is hard to find a good reason for the ribbons and bows that often serve only to distract from what might otherwise have been a perfectly good dish. Eleven may provide some comfort for the visiting Yankee who stays at Loews and comes to the restaurant looking for grits the same way a grizzled gambler bellies up to a Las Vegas table at 3 a.m. looking for lobster.
Price: $-$$ ($5-$15)