Shoya's encyclopedic menu, spread over seven crowded pages, will either send you into a rapture of excitement or cripple you with indecision. Dishes tend to be surprising. The aji namerou, a dish described on the menu as chopped horse mackerel with miso, sounds pretty standard, but what arrives is a small disk of the freshest mackerel, finely chopped, its oily flavor complemented by ginger and its color turned green from the addition of copious amounts of scallion. It's a totally balanced and utterly fantastic surprise of a dish. That's half the fun here. Order away and see what shows up.
Price: $$-$$$ ($15 and over)