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Southern mainstays are the crowd-pleasing draw (fried chicken, shrimp and grits, fried green tomatoes) at this spot for regional cuisine.

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Service, from the crisp host to the über-professional waiters, is almost too good. How can service be too good? The waiters here push certain dishes, talk a great game about anything you ask (wine included), and leave you feeling taken care of and a tad hustled. The waiters will tell you that the fried chicken, shrimp and grits, and fried green tomatoes are the restaurant's signature dishes, and I fear that the popularity of these three undermines the quality available elsewhere on the menu. South City Kitchen achieves a lot of what it sets out to — to be a crowd-pleasing, elegant ambassador for the region's cuisine. But as the city around it has become a hotbed for upscale Southern cuisine, the original has started to feel outdated. The restaurant could take a lesson from its own original playbook and step away from the pull of nostalgia.

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Price: $$-$$$ ($15 and over)

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