The European-inspired bistro Ecco may be pricey but retains a neighborhood hangout feel
It was the Tex-Mex place that sent me over the edge. The Tweet from WhatNowAtlanta.com came over the transom explaining that a Tex-Mex restaurant was scheduled to open near Seventh and Peachtree streets, two blocks from my apartment and smack-dab in the middle of Midtown. "Thank goodness," I thought. I had visions of Javier's in Dallas, a neighborhood eatery with a sterling bar, a cigar lounge, top-notch service, and, oh yeah, fantastic Tex-Mex staples. Nothing chef-y, nothing precious, just great food, drinks, service, and atmosphere. The very combination Midtown seems incapable of offering.
Then I saw the name: Señor Patrón. Oh, no. Basically, "Mister Mister." The "chain" has one restaurant — in the Tex-Mex hotbed of Ohio. Then I saw the website. If Mike Judge were ever to remake Office Space and needed a Tex-Mex joint to replace Chotchkie's, this would be it. It's a parody of Tex-Mex, right down to the names of the dishes, including, but not limited to, the "Speedy Gonzales."
What the hell is wrong with Midtown? Since moving here in October, I've spent a good deal of my time trying to find "my place": a bar or restaurant with a bar that has those four qualities previously mentioned. I'm picky, but not elitist. In Dallas, "my place" was an Irish pub, but it had some of the best bar food you'll find (artisan cheeses, outstanding mussels and frites, etc.). But my secondary home away from home was a high-end steakhouse, with big pours, friendly bartenders, and the city's high-end hookers waiting for the city's high-profile athletes to stop by. In other words, a truly great neighborhood hang can be high- or low-end, specialize in $2 Pabst or $12 for three fingers of Booker's, a well-charred burger or sublime charcuterie.
And the entire spectrum between those categories can offer up disappointments, too. That's mostly what I've been fed in my search. Whether it's snotty service burger joints, over-hyped Southern foodie locales, trendy paeans to douche culture, inferior branches of places that do it better across town, or (most often) just plain average-to-bad food, Midtown struggles to offer anything that approaches a must-visit neighborhood joint.
Perhaps that's why there's such turnover. Already, places like Ludacris' Straits have closed. (That place could not be considered great by any means, as the pricey food was not much better than chain steakhouse quality, but the drinks were stiff and I did have fun wandering in there in the wee hours to what seemed always to be a private party for a DJ and his friends hanging out, hoping Luda would make an appearance.) And there are other places I've visited either for this story or in the past whose eventual shuttering is an inevitability.
Because of a series of such disappointments, some of my favorite places in Midtown are the simple chain-like spots that have little ambition other than to do one or two things well. Hudson Grille, for example, just wants to be a better-than-average sports bar, and it is that, with surprises like a flavorful Parmesan-and-herb-filled turkey burger and a sinfully decadent Sunday brunch menu. Joe's on Juniper (same owners, turns out) just wants to flaunt its great location, patio, and the gay male sex jokes on its menu, and it does all those things well, which covers for the sad state of the actual menu items.
I have hope the worm will turn and this often-mocked area of town — I love when I tell folks I live in Midtown, and the cool kids all make that condescending "oh, that's interesting" face — can find its groove as a place with real neighborhood offerings. To that end, I'm pretty excited about some upcoming places such as the Lawrence, the Juniper Street restaurant from the Top Flr/Sound Table guys. In fact, I crashed the soft-opening invite-only dinner last Friday evening, all but challenging the staff to act all haughty and throw me out. (Would have been completely deserved.) Instead, the bar/wine manager (didn't catch his name; I'm not what you call an excellent "reporter") asked me if I lived nearby ("457 steps; I just counted!"), told me about the vision behind the place (translated: "be kick-ass"), and whetted my appetite.
Because, here's the deal, and I'm sorry for burying the lead: To me, any great neighborhood restaurant has to also be a great bar, or the bar has to have restaurant-quality food. I always eat at the bar, because that's what you do in a place where you feel comfortable. It's where you get to know the staff and the regulars. And the Lawrence's bar looked promising, if a bit too much a part of the dining room for my taste. (To me, you have to be able to sit at the bar without feeling as though you're intruding on people's dinner.)
Tags: Restaurant Review, Midtown, Ecco, TopFlr, Escorpion, Empire State South, Hudson Grille, Joe's on Juniper, The Lawrence, The Spence, Campagnolo, The Independent, South City Kitchen, Publik Draft House, Top Flr, Escorpion Tequila Bar and Cantina
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I really do think Cypress Pint and Plate hits on all points for this. Sweetwater IPA for $3 at all times, always an interesting rotation of beers on tap outside of that, good music, comfortable to sit at the bar, good enough cocktails, the fire pit is great for when it is a bit chilly out and the good dishes there are very good. I always get the meatball sliders, they make a good burger, great fish and chips, and all are reasonably priced. The crowd is also a nice mix of the area.
"I love when I tell folks I live in Midtown, and the cool kids all make that condescending "oh, that's interesting" face"
Wow. It sounds like you hang out with some real douchebags.
I personally wouldn't want to live in Atlanta without being able to walk to PIedmont Park, one of the features that makes in-town living feasible in the first place. Who can afford to eat and drink at a restaurant several times a week (ie as a "hangout") anyway?
@ nichojo - That list you provided is precisely why Midtown is such a stale place. They are all essentially the same concept. Beer list + Mediocre (at best) Pub Food + an obscene amount of TV's. It's formulaic and boring. STK is a great new addition, the Lawrence will be killer, The Spence and Lure are also welcome additions. Personally, I'd like to see a few places that are more creative and experimental. I'd say a molecular gastronomy place, but I think Atlanta is far from being able to support something like that. Perhaps a place that isn't even a restaurant, but some cool lounges/cocktail dens/wine bars. Key to getting that type of environment is having a real city, of course...
Eric, after reading through your "review" I thought this guy has been really working hard to get in where he fits in here in his newly adopted home. The subtext ,the comparison's to Javier's et al, drove the point home for me: you are comparing-prehaps subconciously- Atlanta to your Dallas experience.
Based upon my experiences in both cities, you can't really compare the two because of the differing personalities. Uptown Dallas-Javiers( I consider Knox Henderson Uptown) is populated by the 30k millionaires and the occasional Park Cities thrill seeker. Midtown Atlanta is much more diverse and younger , in part, because of the growing student population.
Now the impending arrival of spots such as The Lawrence and the new bar/lounge at The Georgian Terrace Hotel may inject some of the uptown flavor you seem to crave subliminaly but for now Midtown is what it is.
STK is NOT a weekly/routine hangout type of spot. Have you been yet? It is more glitz than substance, with music that pretty much goes against what a hangout should have (jazz, soul, classic rock, funk, blues, etc.) And molecular gastronomy, while fun, does not make for repeated visits or an easy mid-week destination. Molecular gastronomy, with all of the necessary equipment, ingredients and time consuming preparations also tends to float a higher price tag (i.e. WD-50 in NYC). Not to mention, the fad is slowing a bit. Cocktail bar or wine bar would be nice.
This all just makes me very glad that I'm close to l5p and Decatur. The only thing good about midtown is that it's a little closer to Buford Highway.
"the Independent is a pretty damn solid dive bar, but it's located in the back end of a huge grocery-store anchored strip center. Can't do it."
Wait, what? It sounds like you're looking for a "dive-themed" bar than a real dive bar.
Publik is my place and I always just wait until the Fox shows begin before going there. Once the pre-show crowd clears out, everything is cool. Try the lamb burger -- very good.
Yeah, this central area of Midtown could use some more cool barstaurants (I like that word). Especially ones where the bars aren't filled with TV screens. Something like Holeman & Finch or Sound Table would do well here. But then maybe that's the kind of void both Lawrence and Spence will fill -- we'll see.
If you're ever downtown, I recommend the new Alma Cocina (Fifth Group place). It qualifies as a good barstaurant, I think. The pork cheek arepa is incredible and they have some impressive cocktails.
I think you definitely missed out on Cypress Pint and Plate. It is the true epitome of a neighborhood bar. It is great for happy hour and late night- great service, cheap drinks, excellend appetizers, consistent wait staff, and excellent events. They cater to the community and most patrons there live and/or work in the neighborhood! Check it out...if you haven't already.
I've lived here for 16 years, about as local as they get anymore. Great food and bev exists certainly in Atlanta. The state of Midtown reflects very accurately the state of mind for many people in the city, so for the 95% of you that fall in this category, deal with it!
When people want to be bourgeois but cheap, you can't have both, doesn't work that way. The attitude has never changed and that's why Atlanta has such a hard time measuring to the great food cities on a "consistent" basis. Atlanta has "moments", but not a vision that energizes the community 24/7. As long as people expect 5 star quality and service but don't want to pay more than 5 bucks, always an uphill battle. Groupon came along and REALLY dumbed things down...
One disadvantage that really hurts Midtown and other areas is its not walk friendly, too spread out. Density naturally creates a place for community. Too often great concepts are forced to be the lone anchor for an entire city block. Even with deep pockets its hard to make it alone, you need other businesses, working together to create that buzz and vibe people crave.
Kudos to the places that push to change that culture. There is a great core group already mentioned that strive to see top notch food and bev in Atlanta. I have to put in a shout to the Vortex, not Ecco or Escorpion but a consistent atmosphere, good food and a bar staff that will reciprocate good attitudes, try it (the good attitude part)!
Also as a Midtowner, I wish your Facebook post of this article wasn't "Why do all the restaurants in Midtown suck?" In order to sustain our restaurants (which has been a problem)...and help further development---we need people to give our restaurants a try..For most of the last 2 years here, I have gone out eat at least twice a week--and haven't had to drive anywhere...restaurants like Ecco, TopFlr, Empire State South deserve top billing. For a more bar- like atmosphere, Barrelhouse, Cypress, Marlows, the Highlander, and Vortex. Baraonda has good Italian, Einsteins has a great brunch and an extremely friendly wait-staff. Mu-Lan has a great lunch menu and half-price martinis. Tierra (even though it is closing) has top of the line latin fusion food. Steamhouse Lounge is a great place for crab legs and oysters...and when it is raining Park Tavern has $1 drafts ---and a great patio. Give Midtown some time and hopefully you will find that our "restaurants" don't suck...we just them to stay here.
I am on the same train as filmstocker with the who can be eating out all the time - BUT if you are single and car-less, and maybe your employer covers your phone bill, it is definitely doable.
I am throwing my nomination in for The Highlander - when I moved here in '09 it was where my wife and I went the first night of unpacking the pod, and have been going ever since.
great bar food, waitresses know our names, and no one, I repeat no one, is an outcast or can feel out of place here - I have seen dirtbags and polo sweater wearing moms and dads at adjacent tables and no one blinks.
the mall thing is one drawback, but I love the 'Henge' aspect of the brick columns at Midtown plaza - and it houses Atlanta's best movie theater
PS, I think it's a bit more than coincidence that there is a host of new restaurants opening/preparing to open while at the same time, the residences at Atlantic Station are filling in, condos are being leased/sold at a quicker clip in Midtown, and 2 new high-rise apartment complexes have broken ground...more people = more demand = more services to meet that demand = a city worth spending time in.
Forgot to mention in my previous comment -- kudos to Eric for mentioning bars that he can walk to.
One thing that has always confused me is how many Atlantans (and I've lived here for all of my 40-something years) have shown little interest in bars they can walk to instead of drive to.
I honestly can't enjoy a cocktail experience if I know I have to get in a car after I'm done. Do people just accept drinking and driving as inevitable? Because it really isn't. Having a bar you can walk home from is a good thing. I think the whole concept of getting to and from bars on foot should be more a part of our culture in Atlanta than it has been in the past.
Atlanta Advocate,
Atlanta's alchohol licensing laws are ass backwards. I never really put it together until recently that nightclubs are the only places that serve only alchohol. They are the only ones who can afford to pay such a high fee. I noticed this after a trip to San Francisco where i really enjoyed all of the corner taverns. In Atlanta you have to serve a certain amount of food in order to qualify for a cheaper liquor license. That is why you do not see tiny bars. There has to be room for a kitchen. It's so utterly stupid. The city really needs to change the licensing laws and things would take off.
@ Eric C
I know its not midtown but the best bar for what you are describing in the entire city is the Righteous Room. Its in the Poncey Highlands so you would have to bike (a very quick ride from midtown) or take a bus. The food will shock you with its quality and it has the best jukebox in Atlanta.
"That list you provided is precisely why Midtown is such a stale place. They are all essentially the same concept. Beer list + Mediocre (at best) Pub Food + an obscene amount of TV's."
Wait, what?
Yeah, Taco Mac has a bunch of TV's but it's beer list rivals anything else in the uh, state? You mentioned Hudson Grille which is "good" but if you're looking for a good restaurant with good food, why did you even go there? I mean, both have food equally bad but at least at TMac I get a unique brew.
Tap has what, like 3 TV's? A excellent beer list, fantastic, somewhat eccentric food (Veal Sweetbreads anyone?). The crowd is always hip and fun too.
Cyprus is just like Tap yet it has an atmosphere that is hard to beat. It IS the Midtown spot.
The Nook. Yep, another place with just a couple TV's and a great menu and vibe to boot. Sounds awful, right?
Do I need to continue?
I mean, I really am sorry I'm not solving your Bourdain-esque quest for gastronomy and the perfect cocktail but maybe Midtown just isn't that place. And maybe it doesn't want to be? We might be just fine with letting the 30-something millionaires in Buckhead throw their money at overpriced food and drinks while staring at strays that didn't make the Falcons cheer leading squad.
By all means, keep editorializing Midtown but don't say the restaurants just "suck." They don't. Maybe you just moved to the wrong place, or your writer's stipend is just a little too much.
"I love when I tell folks I live in Midtown, and the cool kids all make that condescending "oh, that's interesting" face "
Most of those 'cool kids' grew up in Cherokee county and are trying pretty hard to overcompensate, so dont feel bad. Plus, if a place like Sound Table were in midtown, it definitely wouldnt fit your criteria. It is just cool because of where it is.
AtlantaAdvocate: You could have said the same thing for the last 15 years or so about Midtown (re: new restaurants coming, new apartment complexes/condo's being built, etc.)
You (writer) sound like a moron dude. There are quite a few places worth going to on a regular basis (and more that are not). The Independent and The Highlander are your quintessential old-school midtown hang-outs. The exist and thrive because of their not-so-bougey location. Not to mention Apres Diem next door, which has/used to have a great bar/food/music scene for regulars.
Spend a weekend rotating through those, and if you think they suck, then....maybe Dallas is ready for you again ;)
You moved to Atlanta this past October and are now complaining about the sterility of Midtown bars and restaurants? I've been here 12 years now, having settled in West Midtown, and not a day goes by when I don't miss the neighborhood places I left behind. You name a few places you find promising, but mostly your article has a whiny tone. Buck up and learn to tolerate mid-downtown Atlanta and its largely unfriendly feel like the rest of us transplants who unknowingly settled in this urban wasteland. After a few years of meditating on this place, maybe you'll be able to write something about it.
Lorenzo: You settled in West Midtown 12 years ago?
-ish: While he's on that side of the park, might as well pay a visit to One Midtown Kitchen ...
Hey! Good discussion, folks. A few points to keep it going:
I've been to Cypress four or five times, most recently this weekend. I think it's the place I most want to be my main hangout. I really do. And I'll keep trying. But the food is very inconsistent. (Example: my chips that came with my chili this weekend were stale.) That's troubling. Do dig the beer selection there, though.
As for Independent/Highlander, eeeehhhh. I'll keep trying. but for me, a neighborhood joint can't be tucked behind Trader Joe's. Sorry. I know I'm persnickety. But what neighborhood is that, exactly? Harrumph.
Not a fan of Taco Mac. Nook was okay. I went there after a bike ride at Piedmont, and maybe I need to give it another try during the evening. Same with Tap: I really did not have a good experience there during a recent happy hour, but a few staffers tell me I need to go when it's pretty outside and sit on the patio and it's a very nice urban bistro experience. When the weather clears up, we'll see.
@Edgewood Adam: I've been told I'd love the Righteous Room. Must try.
@ish: "Sound like?" Dude, I am a moron. Next point, please.
Keep the suggestions coming.
Man I miss the Stein Club!!!!! Stumbled back down 10th to my humble abode on Taft too many time to count way back when...
Glad I didn't get mugged. Midtown was not all dolled up in late 80's. Hell The Nomenclature Museum was the first place to really kick things into gear over on12th in mid 90's.
You've been here since Oct! Get yer ass to the Righteous Room!
stein club was a great midtown hangout. although i like cypress street and have been there quite a few times, i was disappointed the 23 year old bartender had no idea how to make a sazerac. but that wont prevent me from returning there. then again i dont live and no longer work there so actually there really is no reason for me to return there......
@eric I get the feeling about the independent. They're over the maximum number of stairs I'm willing to climb on the regular at a bar. I don't know what all the fuss is about regarding the Righteous Room. Its always packed, but only because its the side of a walk in closet. The service is pretty poor given the selection. It is cheap, though, iirc.
I've always wondered about Dugans, but I hear nothing but bad things...
If I had to pick a midtown bar, it might be deckards, just because it has a respectable beer list. Its sad that its a stripmall out parcel, though. Maybe leave midtown? I'll admit that I made that face, and still make that face. Its not the neighborhood for me. I'm lucky young augustine's is a long stagger home.
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