The restaurant excels at simple beauty, in its classic American setting and in its flavor combinations. Cauliflower has just the right amount of lemon and caramelized edges to set it off. The antipasto plate will have you moving appreciatively from the warm semolina bread to the creamy feta cheese to the cured meats and pickled veggies. One may have a gut reaction to the all-around perfection, to the modern country club vibe, and feel of exclusivity. But there's no doubt that the Hil's food lives up to its surroundings, in quality as well as aspirations.
Price: $$$ ($20-$30)