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Wings House 

Ain’t no thang but a chicken wing

FOOD GROUP: Fried wings and things

MEAL PLAN: Wings House is one of the first eateries to pop up in the massive new development that houses the shiny Doraville Super H Mart and the discount oddity that is BrandsMart. The restaurant's proprietor is a friendly young guy — with an amazing ability to remember customers after only one visit — who's more than happy to steer you in the right direction based on your cravings.

WINGIN' IT: While other wings spots serve oversized specimens lacking flavor, Wings House gets it right with wings on the smaller end of the spectrum. You can choose from 14 different flavors, with more on the way according to its Facebook page. All of the wings taste fresher than fresh and are fried to a perfect crisp before they're coated with just enough sauce or flavoring to make it pop. The spicy flavor is damn hot, but there are so many other cool options to sample. Case in point: the powdered ranch. The wings are coated in a tangy and salty powdered ranch dressing that makes its way into each nook and cranny. The braised wings are sweet and tender with little pieces of caramelized crispies for textural interest.

STEAK THROUGH THE HEART: Aside from the wings, the kitchen puts out a mean cheese steak. Thin slices of beef are cooked until crisp and juicy and tucked into a pillow-soft roll. Skip the mayo and go for the bare-bones approach — meat, cheese and onions. It may not be an authentic Philly cheese steak, but the gooey goodness hooks you after the first bite.

THE MAGIC STICK: Fries are the long uncrinkled variety that are fried to a golden crunch and served unseasoned. A tray of seasoning options allows each diner to tweak the spuds to their taste. Seek out the stout metal shaker simply labeled "magic dust" (seasoning salt) for a little sprinkle of fun and punch.

HAPPY MEAL: Pretty much every main item is available in a combo meal. You can opt for fries, salad or fried rice.

THE BOTTOM LINE: Crave-worthy wings that are worth the trip if the chicken lust is strong.

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