Shopping

Good eats
Our critics' guide to Atlanta restaurants

ATLANTA GRILL The Ritz-Carlton Atlanta, 181 Peachtree St., 404-221-6550.
A clubby, semi-casual Southern steakhouse has replaced the once fiercely formal restaurant. Expensive grilled beef and super-size spuds are perhaps the most reliable offerings at this corporate attempt to please road warriors, conventioneers and expense-account hosts seven days a week, three meals a day. --EM

BACCHANALIA 1198 Howell Mill Road, 404-365-0410.
Atlanta's best restaurant continues to enchant -- and improve. California-inspired dishes from owner / chefs Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison are set out in four- and five-course tasting menus. Meals are as classically plain, unadorned and well paced as a perfectly executed series of ballet steps. Signature dishes include crab fritter with avocado, grapefruit and Thai pepper vinaigrette, pan-seared squab, beets with fresh goat cheese and unimaginably good caramel pot de creme . The wine list is up to the minute. -- EM

BIG BAD BURGER DADDY'S 307-B East College Ave., Decatur, 404-371-8700.
Owner/chef Shaun Smithson's sunny, mom-and-pop storefront near Agnes Scott combines cuisine-school know-how and upbeat, informal atmosphere. Burgers with an abundance of trimmings, spuds in various delicious forms and bargain-basement prices are the reasons to go. Smoking not permitted. Good for takeout. -- EM

CANOE 4199 Paces Ferry Road, Vinings, 770-432-2663.
Cushy yet cozy décor, riverside location, innovative menu, sort of new American Continental. Don't even think of going without reservations. -- AJL

CITY GRILL 50 Hurt Plaza, 404-524-2489.
Located in the historic Hurt building, this is one of the most beautiful dining rooms in the city. The New American fare at this most elegant Peasant Group restaurant has been up and down over the years. You could get lucky. -- SSS

CORNER CAFÉ 3070 Piedmont Road, 404-240-1978.
Breads, muffins, pastries and service are better than ever. Sandwiches (egg salad, chicken club, portobello mushroom) are among the city's overstuffed best. Opens early for breakfast. -- EM

DREAMLAND BAR-B-QUE 10730 Alpharetta Highway at Mansell Road, Roswell, 678-352-7999.
Hit the road to Tuscaloosa, Ga. The newly imported cultural icon features Alabama-style pork barbecue with its characteristic charred edges, subdued seasonings and slathered sauce. Here it's accompanied by tangy slaw, crisp fries, rich pecan pie and logo T-shirts. Salads, sandwiches and such round out the menu. Good for takeout. --EM

DUSTY'S BARBECUE 1815 Briarcliff Road. 404-320-6264.
There's nothing quite like starting out the day with barbeque for breakfast. Dusty's is an award-winning BBQ haven by day and serves up a mean breakfast too. The Chattahoochee Wake-Up features a three egg omelet stuffed with tangy barbecue - pork, beef or chicken -- and is served with homefries or grits and your choice of toast or a biscuit. There's plenty of lighter omelets too, plus great yellow grits, light and fluffy pancakes plus home-made pork sausage that's lightly spiced with chili flakes and sage. This is the place for the breakfast of champions. --SSS

THE EARL 488 Flat Shoals Road, East Atlanta. 404-522- 3950.
A rusted Penzoil sign, a hub cap, a rendition of Mr. T's head -- these are the kinds of things that make up the bar's eclectic, Sanford and Son kind of charisma. The menu offers the traditional bar food assemblage, plus a big handful of healthier alternatives including a full four, count 'em four, vegetarian sandwiches. Burgers are big n' beefy here and the steak sandwich can't be beat. All sandwiches on the menu comes with a choice of house salad, red beans and rice, baked potato, fries, pasta salad, or beer battered onions rings on the side. Try the addictive skinny fries. --SSS

FIVE SISTERS CAFÉ 2743 LaVista Road, 404-636-6060.
Storefront with rumpus-room decor is neighborhood hub for suave sandwiches served by smiling staffers. -- EM

FLOATAWAY CAFÉ 1123 Zonolite Road N.E., 404-892-1414.
A Southern Chez Panisse from the creators of superpopular Bacchanalia, with exquisite, inventive dishes made from fresh, often organic ingredients. The stylishly retro decor fits the former-factory setting too well, resulting in spaces that are visually lush but viciously loud. -- EM

THE FLYING BISCUIT CAFÉ 1655 McLendon Ave., 404-687-8888.
This Candler Park restaurant, offering affordable but highly creative cuisine, had an enormous impact on the city's dining scene when it opened a few years ago. It is still one of the best values in town. The cuisine is New American with just the right touch of levity. -- CBB

GEORGIA GRILLE 11550 Jones Bridge Road, Alpharetta, (678) 297-0291.
Southwestern with flair. Smashing decor is the perfect backdrop for such dishes as smoked ducktrap river trout tostada, gulf shrimp and scallops on a tomato and sweet pepper roasted garlic sauce with fried grits, and the best vegetarian dish ever, the market vegetable plate. Huge portions. -- AJL

HARVEST
853 North Highland Ave., 404-876-8244.
The second floor of this Craftsman-style bungalow has been gloriously opened up. Matching arts-and-crafts furniture, vases, flowers, fireplaces, dramatic curtains and a comfy bar make it the perfect venue for chef Justin Ward's newly inaugurated weekday lunch service. Alas, as has been true since the restaurant's January 1996 debut, the contemporary American cooking is still wildly uneven.-- EM

HEAPING BOWL AND BREW 469 Flat Shoals Ave., 404-523-8030.
This restaurant in East Atlanta prepares inexpensive, wholesome food with occasional outré touches. It almost always works. But we enjoy dining here because of the convivial ambiance. Perogies and greens and beans stew are recommended. -- CBB

HIGHLAND WRAPS & PIZZA KITCHEN 1250 Virginia Ave., 404-872-2562.
A mostly takeout operation in the Virginia-Highland neighborhood, this storefront charmer produces Americanized, albeit notably tasty, meat and vegetarian burritos and tacos. Little can be said in defense of the hapless pizzas and desserts. -- EM

IN THE SHADE CAFÉ inside the Wish-Fulfilling Tree Bookstore, 2329 Cheshire Bridge Road, 404-634-7411.
Juices, sandwiches and light noshes are all fresh and delicious. Plus, get your spiritual high from sniffing the nearby incense. -- CBB

INSIGNIA Chastain Square, 4279 Roswell Road, 404-256-4040.
Accomplished Pacific Rim and American regional cuisine, plus a useful wine list, with everything showcased in a fashionably gray, modernist, dramatically lit setting, draws flush customers willing to pay healthy prices. Proprietor David Abes and chef Pete Pavesic are well-trained graduates of Horseradish Grill, Buckhead Diner and the Atlanta Fish Market. The new venture includes a smokers' porch and a cadre of knowledgeable, enthusiastic servers. --EM.

JOEY D'S OAK ROOM 1015 Crown Pointe Parkway at Perimeter West Center (behind the mall), Dunwoody, 770-512-7063.
All you really need to know about Joey D's is that they serve corned beef made from brisket ordered directly from New York's Carnegie Deli. And the French fries may be the best in the city. -- AJL

KILLER CREEK CHOP HOUSE 1700 Mansell Road at Ga. 400, Alpharetta, 770-649-0064.
Killer decor, but don't let that stop you. The menu is small with straightforward entrées and funky appetizers. Blue cheese heaven. Well-trimmed steaks are cooked as asked, but stay away from the greasy rack of lamb. -- AJL

MATTHEWS CAFETERIA 2299 Main Street, Tucker, 770-491-9577.
Open weekdays only. An honest-to-goodness, Main Street small town cafeteria with delicious homey food at unbelievably low prices. The roast turkey is really roast turkey, not processed turkey roll. Breakfast begins at 4:30 a.m. Charming atmosphere, although it isn't meant to be charming. -- AJL

MIKE'S CHICAGO DOG HOUSE 5948 Roswell Road, Sandy Springs, 404-252-8484.
With an interior as bright yellow and red as cheap mustard and ketchup, Mike's serves up one of the gastronomic icons of the Windy City, the Vienna 100 percent pure beef hotdog. Fresh dogs, fresh condiments, great chocolate shake. -- AJL

MUMBO JUMBO 89 Park Place, 404-523-0330.
Located in a treasure of a building, this bar/lounge/restaurant is a visual feast. And the New American cuisine, as interpreted by Chef Shaun Doty, ain't bad either. Globally and seasonally influenced, the menu always changes, and it's always reliable. You can also rely on an interesting crowd, from oh-so-chic to far out. -- SSS

MURPHY'S 997 Virginia Ave., 404-872-0904.
This airy French-doored deli-and-beyond is always crowded -- breakfast, lunch and dinner. Omelets and muffins are good, and soups and sandwiches are usually fresh. If the lines are too long, there's always takeout. -- SSS

PALISADES 1829 Peachtree St. at Palisades Road, 404-350-6755.
A semi-casual neighborhood restaurant in a plush intown district, revamped by new management and re-ignited by the efforts of an ambitious new chef (Darrell Rice), means high living for lovers of scallops with Vidalia onion sauce, pan-roasted sea bass, mango-tomato gazpacho and chocolate mousse. -- EM

THE PALM 3391 Peachtree Road, 404-814-1955.
Steak and lobster are the name of the game at this expense-account eatery in Buckhead's Swiss<\#153>tel. Clubby attire is enhanced by the restaurant group's schtick -- caricatures of famous faces peering down on those who go to see and be seen. -- SSS

PARK 75 Four Seasons Hotel Atlanta, 75 Fourteenth St., 404-881-9898.
Rich, well-constructed New American cuisine in a luxury setting with prices to match. Initial menus from executive chef Brooke Vosika -- transplanted from the extraordinary Four Seasons Olympic Hotel in Seattle -- are particularly strong on soups and seafood. -- EM

THE ROMAN LILY CAFÉ 688 Highland Ave., 404-653-1155.
Calavino Donati and her buzz-headed staff in overalls are serving up killer contemporary American diner food and a great experience in this storefront restaurant. Meatloaf with a tequila-jalapeno gravy and scallops with baked polenta and wild mushrooms are our fave dishes. But salads and sandwiches are tasty too. Reservations are now accepted (and necessary) on weekends. -- CBB

SAGE 121 Sycamore St., Decatur, 404-373-5574.
With no pretensions beyond generic American-bistro food and ambience, the Courthouse Square-area baby sister to Le Giverny offers hefty portions, modest prices, decent if spotty cooking, wide-ranging wine list and warm, welcoming service by a mostly female staff. -- EM

SAN FRANCISCO WRAPS 8725 Roswell Road, Dunwoody, 770-993-3999; 2160 N. Decatur Road, Decatur, 404-320-9111.
Best local effort since Tortillas on Ponce (and, arguably, Great Western Burrito Co.) to produce a variety of burrito-style wraps with plenty of flavor and minimal attitude. --EM

THE SMITH HOUSE 84 South Chestatee Street, Dahlonega. (706) 867-7000.
Country dinner served family style in a comfortable down-home setting. Highlights are the fried chicken and a bounty of nicely cooked vegetables. -- AJL

THE SOUTHERN SKILLET 1037 Alpharetta St., Roswell. 770-993-7700.
Fast, fun, friendly. The menu comprises every good old-fashioned, down-home thing you can think of: roast beef and gravy, corned beef hash, catfish, country ham, calves liver, chicken livers, rainbow trout. Plus breakfast stuff: omelets, pancakes, oatmeal and grapefruit. The Southern Skillet opens for business at the crack of dawn, which is a great time to go. But no time is a bad time. -- AJL

STONEY RIVER 10524 Alpharetta Highway, at Holcomb Bridge Road, Roswell, (678) 461-7900.
The mainstream runs through this steaks-and-sushi dinner house from the creators of Brookwood Grill. The wilderness lodge dÈcor, upbeat service and decent sushi bar are much superior to the salty, overseasoned American food. No reservations. Expect long waits at prime hours. -- EM

STRINGERS FISH CAMP AND OYSTER BAR 3384 Shallowford Road, Chamblee, 770-458-7145.
Hole in the wall, in the very best sense. Oysters galore, trout, gumbo crammed with shrimp. House sides are an interesting corn salad and the best hushpuppies in the state. -- AJL

SWEET TOMATOES 6350 Peachtree Dunwoody Road, 770-913-0203; 1125 Barrett Parkway, Kennesaw, 770-429-5522; 3505 Mall Blvd., Duluth, 770-418-1148.
Pizza, spuds, soups and about half the greenery are worth their weight in calories and cholesterol at units of this San Diego, Calif.-based buffet chain aimed at families and office workers. Atmosphere is bright and upbeat, prices reasonable. -- EM

VORTEX BAR AND GRILL 438 Moreland Ave. in Little Five Points, 404-688-1828, and 878 Peachtree St., 404-875-1667.
Funky atmosphere, loud music, enormous selection of bottled beers and some of the best and biggest burgers in town. Black bean soup and homestyle pimento cheese are excellent, too.

WATERSHED 406 W. Ponce de Leon Ave., Decatur, 404-378-4900.
The combination restaurant, wine bar, package store, gift shop and takeout counter holds wonders aplenty. Offerings change daily. A slice of fish, a mound of creamed potatoes, a bowl of some unusual pasta may be heaven on toast points today, history tomorrow. Luckily the salads and sandwiches (beets, shrimp, roast pork) and desserts (pecan tart, apple cake, chocolate cake, macaroons) are fairly constant in both their excellence and their availability. Informal ambiance. A few outdoor tables in nice weather. -- EM

WILDFLOWERS Mall Corners Shopping Center, 3646 Satellite Blvd., Duluth, 770-476-4476.
Unusual salads, surprising sandwiches and stupendous desserts in an independent, something-for-everybody kind of storefront. -- EM

ZAC'S 308 W. Ponce de Leon Ave., 404-373-9468.
This downtown Decatur restaurant features tasty pastas and seafood. An outdoor patio and fresh flowers lend ambiance to this casual spot. -- SSS

CAJUN

GUMBO A GO-GO 1405 Oxford Road, 404-687-0031; and 736 Ponce de Leon Ave., 404-874-8620.
Head to Emory Village to a rough jewel where Emory students wolf down dirt-cheap portions of the best jambalaya around while they deconstruct (discuss the love lives of) their instructors. The second location on Ponce (by Tortilla's) offers the same Cajun-Creole dishes, like big chief crazy gumbo and, when it's in season, crawfish etoufée. -- CBB

PAPPADEAUX SEAFOOD KITCHEN 2830 Windy Hill Road, Marietta, 770-984-8899.
Who'd have thought a chain serving enormous volumes of food could be this good? Spectacular etouffee, lovingly prepared gumbos, delicately broiled seafood and mountains of fried stuff are turning out crowds that cause 90-minute waits. Go early. Real early. CBB

SOMBER REPTILE'S CAJUN KITCHEN 842 Marietta St., 404-881-9701.
Snackery in a quirky music hall (walls black, smoking encouraged, no coffee) is westside headquarters for shrimp, oyster and andouille sausage po' boy sandwiches, fried okra and cold suds. Sonny bubbas in uniform and men in suits hit it hard at lunchtime on weekdays. -- EM

YA YA'S CAJUN CUISINE 426 W. Ponce de Leon, Ave., 404-373-9292.
David and Leslie Lester have hit the big time in Decatur. Lunch offers the best po' boys in town and dinner means very good (roux-less) etouffées and gumbos. Try the grilled boudin and "snapper courtbouillion." -- CBB

CHINESE

CHINA COOKS CHINESE SEAFOOD 215 Copeland Road (just off Roswell Road), Sandy Springs, 404-252-6611.
The best Cantonese around. Large menu includes Peking duck without the usual 24-hour call-ahead requirement. But as the restaurant's name suggests, seafood is the specialty of the house. Lobster and Dungeness crab are exceptional. -- AJL

CHOPSTIX 4279 Roswell Road, 404-255-4868.
One of the most popular Asian-style restaurants in Atlanta, where elegant Chinese fare is served by candlelight to a rather upscale audience. Gourmet classics from shrimp to lobster to sweetbreads are prepared Hong Kong style -- everything's top-notch. -- SSS

CHUNG HA CHINESE-KOREAN BUFFET 5979 Buford Highway, Doraville, 770-455-7370.
Foodies with a taste for experimentation will appreciate the extensive display of Asian foods as well as a helpful, informative staff. Highlights include Korean barbecued meats and hors d'oeuvres, nuggets of marinated chicken, unusual soups and noodles. Very affordable. Sunday brunch draws after-church mobs. --EM.

DOC CHEY'S NOODLE HOUSE 1424 N. Highland Ave., 404-888-0777.
A pan-Asian noodle house for yuppies. Great sense of humor, great style, great appetizers. -- CBB

DRAGON PALACE 6254 Memorial Drive, Stone Mountain, 770-498-8228.
Fabulous dumplings -- the best in town -- and soups full of goodies in fragrant broths. Try U10, House Noodle Soup, an incredible value at $5.95 for enough for two. Sauces and mushrooms are particularly good, no matter which dish you order. Friendly, neighborhood atmosphere. -- AJL

HARMONY VEGETARIAN CHINESE RESTAURANT 4897 Buford Hwy., Chamblee, 770-457-7288.
Curry flavors (noodles, dumplings) and moo shu vegetable wraps are tops at this minimally decorated newcomer. Stick with greenery and skip the imitation beef and fish. -- EM

HONG KONG GOURMET 5920 Roswell Road, Sandy Springs (Parkside shopping center), 404-255-3388.
The place to be adventurous because nothing is bad. An excellent chef employs excellent ingredients, so put yourself in the hands of the staff and let them suggest some authentic dishes for you. If you can round up a group, call ahead to arrange a banquet. -- AJL

KONG LANG, ORIENT CENTER 4897 Buford Highway, Suite 125, Chamblee, 770-986-9168.
Classy Cantonese barbecue and roast pork specialist, with seafood an added attraction, spins off (and up) from affably grungy, always reliable Ming's Bar B.Q. Restaurant nearby. Service, amenities and décor nearly match the delectable cuisine. --EM

LITTLE SZECHUAN 5091 Buford Highway in Northwoods Plaza, Doraville, 770-451-0192.
Long one of the metro area's premier Chinese restaurants, and the only place in town to consider ordering tofu. Excellent salt-and-pepper preparations and whole steamed fish. Marvelous sauces. -- AJL

NEW PARADISE CHINESE RESTAURANT 4795 Buford Highway, Chamblee, 770-936-0306.
Located near the south end of the Chambodia business strip, this small, neat storefront offers affordable, authentic cuisine in simple surroundings. Foodies and similarly adventurous diners should order from the white Asian menu. A red tourist menu is available for those who prefer safer shopping-center fare. -- EM

P.F. CHANG'S CHINA BISTRO 500 Ashwood Parkway, off Ashford Dunwoody Road, 770-352-0500.
An only partially successful attempt to mate Chinese cookery with the American casual-chain concept, this is essentially a Houston's or Bennigan's with egg rolls. Service and cuisine are thoroughly Americanized. Evocations of China consist almost entirely of Asian-style decorations. Orange peel shrimp is a safe choice. -- EM

PYNG HO 1357 Clairmont Road, 404-634-4477.
This is a very popular and authentic Chinese restaurant outside the main Buford Highway corridor. Thus, many who find the ethnic experience intimidating will be more comfortable here. By all means, stick to the menu of evening specials. A whole fried red snapper drizzled in black bean sauce is amazing. Order it if available and write me a thank-you note. -- CBB

ROYAL CHINA 3295 Chamblee Dunwoody Road, Chamblee, 770-216-9933.
New owners have overhauled the former Honto to mostly good effect. Although the Cantonese cuisine is highly erratic, the elegant decor and new restrooms make a visit almost mandatory for old hands. On balance, try dinner rather than lunch, vegetables and seafood over meat. --EM.

YIN YIN 318 E. Paces Ferry Road, 404-869-0999.
Familiar, well-executed Chinese fare, from Szechwan to Cantonese, is a welcome change from all the fusion fuss. A newly renovated space in the heart of Buckhead is sleek and simple, and the service is accommodating. Ask for the steamed sea bass with a ginger brown sauce. -- SSS

CONTINENTAL BABETTE'S CAFÉ 471 N. Highland Ave., 404-523-9121.
Situated between Inman Park and Virginia-Highland, this lovely cafe escapes both glib trendiness and Martha Stewartness. The dining room is romantic and homey. Herb-crusted lamb chops, risotto specials, fried oysters atop a dill biscuit are recommended. Desserts are killer. -- CBB

THE BISTRO 56 E. Andrews Drive, 404-231-5733.
A secret from all but Atlanta's wine crowd, this white tablecloth eatery features well-prepared French and continental standard dishes. This is the place for oenophiles -- or those just ready for a nice relaxing meal. -- SSS

ECLIPSE DI LUNA 764 Miami Circle, 404-846-0449.
Paul Luna and James Ehrlich have created one of the most pleasant dining rooms in town. Dining here recalls Europe's outdoor cafes. Lunch features delicious sandwiches, soups and quiches; evenings offer a tapas menu that is the best in town. Little Spanish-style marinated ribs, grilled octopus, skewered prawns, luscious Manilla clams are among the offerings. -- CBB

THE RESTAURANT, at the Ritz-Carlton downtown 181 Peachtree St., 404-659-0400.
One of the city's best food experiences can be had under the care of an amazing staff and chef. The wild mushroom risotto and rack of lamb with a spicy Thai paste will make your knees go weak. It doesn't get much better than this. -- SSS

SEEGER'S 111 W. Paces Ferry Road, 404-846-9779.
Beard Award-winning chef Guenter Seeger's new stand (he was the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead's star for a decade, took a tumble with Resto des Amis, recovered as consultant to Mumbo Jumbo) features resourceful contemporary-continental cuisine, small portions, prix fixe menus with big prices, elegant service and a minimalist postmodern decorative scheme that fits the food like sauce over fish. Reservations recommended on weekends. -- EM

CUBAN

MAMBO RESTAURANTE CUBANO 1402 North Highland Avenue, 404-876-2626.
v Lunch service is notable for Cuban Sloppy Joe sandwiches (grilled Cuban loaves stuffed with picadillo and ropa vieja). The regular menu offers traditional entrees, salads and other island delights. Outdoor tables available. -- EM.

LAS PALMERAS 368 Fifth St., 404-872-0846.
Cuban neighborhood cafÈ is noted for black beans and rice, fried plantains, authentic entrees, friendly welcomes and faster service than might be expected. A smokers' deck is pleasant in nice weather. Purchase beer and wine at the grocery next door or BYOB. --EM

FRENCH

CAFÉ BOHEME 453 Moreland Ave., 404-522-4373.
Sit-down bistro fare, with wines and beers to match, from the people at highly regarded Paris Market. Low prices, hearty portions and French ambience make it worth the jaunt to Little Five Points. --EM

LE SAINT AMOUR 1620 Piedmont Ave., 404-881-0300.
New chef, traditional country French cooking. Blanquette de veau, rabbit pate, soufflés, that kind of thing. Atmosphere to match. --EM.

PASTIS 936 Canton Street, Roswell, 770-640-3870.
Like a short trip to the Mediterranean coast. Risotto, Salad Nicoise, grilled ribeye steak, deliciously crunchy fried calamari, gazpacho, lamb shanks, sea bass. Different rooms have different themes, from wine cellar to sun-dappled balcony. -- AJL

FUSION

SOHO 4200 Paces Ferry Road, 770-801-0069.
Cleverly conceived, albeit ding-dong loud, shopping-center bistro with pricey fusion menu. Asian-inspired dishes (coconut-curry soup, ahi tuna with sweet rice cakes) come off better than the tepidly southwestern specialties. No reservations. -- EM

GERMAN

GREEK

INDIAN

UDIPI CAFÉ 1850 Lawrenceville Highway, Decatur, 404-325-1933.
Savory rice pilafs, spicy vegetable curries and spectacular stuffed crépes and pancakes are but four reasons to seek out the city's newest South Indian vegetarian outlet. Sophisticated carrot desserts, traditional beverages and crisp breads double the pleasure. Table service is a plus. -- EM

ITALIAN

AROMI 1025 Virginia Ave., Atlanta, 404-607-0220.
With a brightly lit neon store front just a few doors east of the Virginia Highland intersection, Aromi has sweets, coffee, gelato crepes and panini. Gelato flavors include peach, raspberry, lemon, banana, chocolate, vanilla, hazelnut, chocolate chip and more. Lightly press-grilled panini are served on foccacia and come with chips. Shelves are lined with silver bags of rich Swiss-produced coffee, Lindt truffles, bags of pasta and balsamic vinegar among other things. And as if all this weren't enough lure - the coffee's great too. --SSS

ARTURO'S PIZZA & PASTA 5486 Chamblee Dunwoody Road at Mt. Vernon Road in the Shops of Dunwoody, 770-396-0335.
My friend, whose Italian grandmother lived with his family for 20 years, says Arturo's makes food the way she did. Now that's Italian. Whatever else you get, don't fail to order the cold roasted peppers and mozzarella. -- AJL

CIAO BELLA 309 Pharr Road, 404-261-6013.
Simplicity is the approach here. Order big white bowls of perfect pastas -- with wild mushrooms or mussels and anchovies. Prices are low, the crowd is convivial and the staff is thoroughly Italian. It is to Italian cuisine what Anis is to French in our city. Go. -- CBB

CIPOLLINI 1529 Piedmont Ave., 404-875-5001.
John Carver, formerly of Pricci, has taken over saucy Ciboulette and its talented chef de cuisine, Ofer Ayal. The haute bistro dining room sports a clean, spare, faux marbre makeover that's in tune with modern Italian design. Cooking is updated Italian-American, with salads, pastas (especially strazzopreti -- "priest stranglers," thin tubes with veal sauce) and meat entrees making the biggest impression. In keeping with the Ansley-area location, service is slick, helpful and gracious, prices on the up side. --EM .

ENO 800 Peachtree St., at Fifth, 404-685-3191.
Conceived as an extremely comfortable laboratory where food and drink pairings may be explored, Doug Strickland's and Jamie Adams' Mediterranean bistro significantly could raise the standards of corporate Atlanta's drinking classes. Food is fashionably Cal-Italian -- lots of olives, olive oil, fruit, fresh fish and seasonal ingredients. The cooking is first-rate, the crowd Midtown-hot. Sidewalk tables, wine room, tastings featured. --EM

FRATELLI DI NAPOLI 2101 Bennett St., 404-351-1533; 928 Canton St., Roswell, 770-642-9917.
Big-deal, super-size takes on Little Italy specializing in homestyle platters serving two to four. Chicken with eggplant, spinach salad with gorgonzola dressing and tiramisu are standouts. Dinner nightly. Reservations for six or more. -- EM

GRAPPA 3097 Maple Drive, 404-262-9749.
Soups and salads are best bets at this Tuscanized Buckhead bungalow inhabited by co-Chefs Lynne Gigliotti (Gigliotti Culinary Concepts, Grapevine Café, Azio) and Christophe Vessaire (Resto des Amis, French Embassy, Washington, D.C.). Dinner only. -- EM

LA GROTTA 2637 Peachtree Road, 404-231-1368.
This is one of Atlanta's longest-running fine dining experiences, evidenced by the Seventies décor and Italian cuisine. Try the tuna carpaccio and the roasted quail stuffed with sausage. -- SSS

LAGROTTA RAVINIA RISTORANTE ITALIANO 4355 Ashford Dunwoody Road in the Crowne Plaza Hotel across from Perimeter Mall, 770-395-9925.
Northern Italian cuisine. Reliable risotto, real Dover sole (simply sauced with extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice), grilled pork tenderloin with port. Service not as experienced not polished as the original La Grotta in Buckhead, but it's improving. -- AJL

LUNA SI 1931 Peachtree Road, 404-355-5993.
Who'd think that "old faithful" and "cutting-edge" could honestly belong together? That's exactly so in this remarkably affordable restaurant with a strong contemporary Italian influence. Convivial and quirky themselves, the Luna brothers have created one of the city's most reliable choices. -- CBB

MI SPIA 4505 Ashford-Dunwoody Road in Park Place shopping center, Dunwoody, 770-393-1333.
Stylish Northern Italian. (Well, sort of.) Risotto, grain mustard-marinated pork chops, garlic-infused mashed potatoes and chewy honey-walnut bread you will beg to buy a loaf of to take home. And if it's towards the end of the evening, they might sell some to you. Both the food and the portions are robust. -- AJL

NOCHE 1000 Virginia Ave., 404-815-9155.
The nuevo New Mexican chow at this boutique cantina, while extremely inconsistent, combines campfire flavor with comfort food accessibility. Stylishly fitted and moderately priced, with good service, it may be considered a flashier alternative to Sundown Café. --EM

PASTAFICIO CAMELI
1263 Glenwood Ave. SE, 404-622-9926.
Retro pasta parlor in East Atlanta gentrification zone offers delectable fresh pastas, salads and soups in stripped-back, contemporary surroundings. Deck and sidewalk tables offered in nice weather. Dinner only. --EM

THE PATIO 1029 Edgewood Ave. (across from the Inman Park MARTA station), 404-584-8945.
A killer redo of the old Deacon Burton spot, with an especially wonderful patio. Pastas and pizzas are the main fare. Inexpensive. -- CBB

SALVATORE TRATTORIA 292 South Atlanta St., Roswell, 770-645-9983.
The setting here is so pleasant and the quality of the olive oil, olives and cheese so fine that one could sit with these and nothing more -- well, maybe a glass of red wine -- and be content. Traditional Italian family favorites served as though patrons were guests in the home. -- AJL

SAVAGE PIZZA 484 Moreland Ave., 404-523-0500.
Among the best local sources of real, hand-thrown, honest-to-Palermo pizza, this slightly bent independent in Little Five Points is notable for fresh ingredients, homemade sauces and clever, knowing service. Wide selection of pizza toppings and calzone fillings. Good for takeout. Smokers' porch. --EM

SOTTO SOTTO 313 North Highland Ave., 404-523-6678.
As a place to dine extremely well, see friends and plug into what people are talking about, Riccardo Ullio's Italian outpost in Inman Park can hardly be beat. Pastas, risotti and desserts are winners, as is the high energy factor. -- EM

JAMAICAN

JAPANESE

STONEY RIVER 10524 Alpharetta Highway, at Holcomb Bridge Road, Roswell, (678) 461-7900.
The mainstream runs through this steaks-and-sushi dinner house from the creators of Brookwood Grill. The wilderness lodge décor, upbeat service and decent sushi bar are much superior to the salty, overseasoned American food. No reservations. Expect long waits at prime hours. -- EM

YOKOHAMA 2221 Peachtree Road, 404-603-5282.
Reconstituted neighborhood sushi parlor with all-purpose Japanese-American menu (noodles, tonkatsu, teriyaki steak, ice cream) fills an independent niche on a busy intown strip that's heavily populated by hospitality gorillas such as Houston's, Benihana and TGI Friday's. Tender tempura squid is a tasty treasure. -- EM

MALAYSIAN

MEXICAN

CHICKEN WORLD 5150 Buford Hwy., 770-458-5164.
Give your honey a choice of menudo, Buffalo chicken wings or moo goo gai pan here. Chino-Mexicano. It's not the best food in town, but it is most definitely a happening. -- CBB

EL MATADOR 4316 Chamblee-Tucker Road at Tucker-Norcross Road, Norcross, 770-414-9291.
Better than average Mexican. Ceviche is made with orange roughy (and spiced very hot), very good tacos with charbroiled marinated skirt steak (Tacos al Carbon) and charbroiled marinated pork chops (Chuletas). Good chips and salsa, too. -- AJL

EL PORTAL 2157 Briarcliff Road, 404-320-1888.
Homestyle Mexican specialties (garlic shrimp, chilaquiles, quesadilla rellena) in a storefront in the north-of-Emory district. Prices are peso low. -- EM

FONDA SAN CARLOS MEXICAN KITCHEN AND FISH MARKET 2077 Beaver Ruin Road, Norcross, 770-797-2828.
Eating here is not simply a meal, it is a cultural expedition. A real, honest-to-goodness authentic Mexican kitchen. You will need to ask for the real menu to get the most unusual things, and you'll probably need an interpreter, too. Colorful decor and a real fish market, too. -- AJL

FRONTERA MEX-MEX GRILL 4606 Jimmy Carter Blvd., 770-493-8341; and 5070 Stone Mountain Hwy., 770-972-3366.
Sunday brunch at two locations of the local chain features energetic ranchera music, heady fiesta atmosphere and a succession of unusual Mexican specialties. Spice levels, thought toned down, are still lively enough to tickle gringo tongues. -- EM

SANGRIA'S MEXICAN CAFÉ 4369 Hugh Howell Road, Tucker, 770-270-1777.
Large, breezy entrance patio, cozy interior, the best arroz con pollo in the city and wonderful -- really wonderful -- sangria. -- AJL

SANTA FE CAFé 123 E. Court Square, Decatur, 404-377-1399.
Starter-kit New Mexican food, with upbeat service, in a vibrant center of intown redevelopment. Sidewalk tables recommended. --EM

TAQUERIA DEL SOL 1200-B Howell Mill Road at Huff Road, 404-352-5811.
Spin-off of popular Sundown Café is long on informality and comfortingly Americanized Mexican and Southwestern fare. It's decidedly short on glitz, and guests order at the bar and carry their own drinks. Seafood specials can be really special. Old favorites -- spicy turnip greens, jalapeño slaw and carnita tacos -- are still worth saying "Olé" to as well. --EM

TORTILLAS 774 Ponce de Leon Ave., 404-892-0193.
So many burrito shops have opened in town in the last year that we tend to forget the original and, in many ways, still the best. Nobody's pinto beans come close to Tortillas, you don't have to endure oniony seasonings, you get flawless guac and green sauce, and you still get plenty of bad attitude and crummy ambiance. -- CBB

ZOCALO 187 10th Street, 404-249-7576.
Midtown's former monument to mucho-Mexican mole has been mainstreamed and Americanized. The city's best stuffed peppers, the still-peppy chicken mole and a collection of 150 tequilas don't make up for greasy tacos, hard-edged service, hard to read menus, inappropriate music and uncomfortable chairs. Note that visitors with hotel room keys get a 10 percent discount.-- EM

MOROCCAN

IMPERIAL FEZ 2285 Peachtree Road, 404-351-0870.
Atlanta's most luxurious interpretation of the Casbah, this carpet-lined, pillow-strewn hideaway serves authentic prix fixe Moroccan in a five-course ceremony complete with hand washing and belly dancing. Take your shoes off and stay awhile. -- SSS

MIRAGE PERSIAN CUISINE 6631 Roswell Road at Abernathy Road in Abernathy Square shopping center, 404-843-8300.
If I had to confine myself to using one word to describe the food here, that word would be "generous." As in large portions, myriad spices, complimentary side orders and the willingness of the hosts to share their knowledge of Persian food and customs with their guests. And the food is unique and delicious. -- AJL

SEAFOOD

OYSTER CAFÉ 3567 Chamblee Dunwoody Road, at Peachtree Industrial Blvd, Chamblee, 770-457-5535
. Fried seafood (shrimp, oysters and catfish top the list) in a neat diner. Recently revamped and reopened by the owners of Oyster King, a 12-year, Kennesaw success story. -- EM

PAPPADEAUX SEAFOOD KITCHEN 2830 Windy Hill Road, Marietta, 770-984-8899.
Who'd have thought a chain serving enormous volumes of food could be this good? Spectacular etouffee, lovingly prepared gumbos, delicately broiled seafood and mountains of fried stuff are turning out crowds that cause 90-minute waits. Go early. Real early. CBB

SOUTHERN

HORSERADISH GRILL 4320 Powers Ferry Road, 404-255-7277.
First-rate fried chicken, pork barbecue, mashed potatoes, savory greens, hot biscuits and traditional Southern desserts from rising-star chef Dave Berry are served in an elegant trophy room masquerading as a Chastain Park stable. Warmest welcomes and best treatment are reserved for monied regulars. Lovely outdoor tables can be requested in nice weather. -- EM

JUSTIN'S 2200 Peachtree St., 404-603-5353.
Just say no. Rap dinner theater in the former Sfuzzi and Coco Pazzo features big smiles, gorgeously draped staff, moderately loud musical background static, otherworldly prices and formularized soul food of the warm-and-serve persuasion. --EM

HOLYFIELD'S NEW SOUTH GRILL 6075 Roswell Road, Sandy Springs, 404-531-0300.
Yeah, that Holyfield. Boxing champ Evander wrote the checks. Nigerian-born John Akhile (Azalea, Waverly Grill) designed a fusion menu that's heavily weighted toward the Thai, Chinese and Italian aspects of contemporary Southern cooking. Good service and inconsistent kitchen work make it worth half a try. Outdoor tables available. --EM

THE SHARK BAR 571 Peachtree St., 404-815-8333.
Hip, helpful staffers are the best feature of this branch of a small, New York-based chain specializing in what the company calls "upscale soulfood and New Southern cuisine in a fine dining context at less than fine dining prices." Whew! Stick with pork ribs (sauce on the side) and vegetables. -- EM

THOMAS MARKETPLACE State Farmers Market, 16 Forest Parkway, Forest Park, 404-361-1367.
Venerable purveyor of heirloom Southern cooking, hefty portions and down-home hospitality is among the Southside's best bets for traditional breakfasts, meat-and-two lunches and corn muffins. Fried chicken livers, grilled salmon, turnip greens and corn muffins recommended Go elsewhere for barbecue. --EM

THAI

LITTLE BANGKOK 2225 Cheshire Bridge, near Lenox Road, 404-315-1530.
Now it can be told: Some of the best Thai food in town is at this absurdly inexpensive hole in the wall. Pay close attention to evening specials, like chicken with eggplant or spicy squid. Seasonings are fiery, portions are very large and ingredients always include a few surprises. The menu also features Chinese cuisine. -- CBB

NORTHLAKE THAI CUISINE 3939 LaVista Road at Montreal Road across from Northlake Mall, 770-938-2223.
An understatedly elegant restaurant serving some of the usual Thai-menu suspects in an unusual manner. Seafood dishes tend to be better than others -- try the light, puffy shrimp dumplings. Most everything is mild. -- AJL

PENANG MALAYSIAN CUISINE Orient Center, 4897 Buford Hwy., Chamblee, 770-220-0308.
Clever, classy take on the crossroads cuisine of Malaysia, one of Asia's sleeping tigers. Whole fish with Thai sauce, pancakes with chicken curry, satays, noodles and crisp vegetables -- all with a moderately spicy kick -- are authentic, approachable and well prepared. The setting, a bamboo summerhouse with all the latest conveniences, matches the upbeat, sunny ambience. -- EM

PHO HOA 5150 Buford Highway in Asian Square shopping center, Doraville, 770-455-8729.
There is nothing else on earth like pho, the Vietnamese soup made with broth that has been simmered and reduced for 12 hours, minimum. Toss in different kinds of meats, some sprigs of basil and mint, and you're all set. $5 will get you a bowl big enough to make you feel fed all day long. -- AJL

SALA THAI 10945 State Bridge Road, near the Super Kroger in the Saddlebrook shopping center, Alpharetta, 770-754-6222.
Top Thai. Larb (traditional salad of ground meat) is a revelation, so fresh, an amalgam of sweet, tart and hot. Whole fish is superb, as are the sauces. -- AJL

SATAY RIA 1861 Peachtree Road, 404-609-9990.
An Intown find. The younger, SoBuck brother to Buford Highway's Little Malaysia offers mid-scale comforts, Malaysian-Thai cuisine (chicken satay, chicken curry, acar salad) and unusually good service. --EM

THAI CHILI 2169 Briarcliff Road, at LaVista Road, 404-315-6750.
The first-rate cooking of owner-chef Robert Khankiew has taken a holiday at the restaurant formerly known as Thai Chilli. Fresh paint and fancy place mats fail to disguise a decline in the quality of the once notable signature dishes. -- EM

THAI OCEAN 875 Mansell Road, Roswell, (678) 461-0999.
Frankly, as gorgeous as the presentation is, they could be serving cardboard and still garner raves. Lucky for us, though, they are serving excellent seafood with just the right degree of spicing. Lobster and soft-shell crabs are a specialty, as is the warm welcome and thoughtful service. -- AJL

VEGETARIAN

VIETNAMESE

CBB is Cliff Bostock, EM is Elliott Mackle, SSS is Shelley Skiles Sawyer, SL is Shelley Lawrence.

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