Has Wolfgang Puck ever eaten at the Atlanta Wolfgang Puck Express (1745 Peachtree St., 404-815-1500)? No? Good for him. I'm sure he has better taste.
I had business in the Brookwood Station area Friday and decided, reluctantly, to grab a salad there â a Caesar with chicken. Look closely at the picture and you can see the cheese with the texture of talcum powder. You cannot see the revolting pool of dressing at the bottom of the bowl. You can see the chicken but you can't savor its rubbery, dried texture and almost complete absence of flavor.
I really don't get it. I used to eat well in an Express in Los Angeles pretty frequently and have been to most of Puck's big-name restaurants in that city. And Puck has not lost his touch at all, apparently. His newest, Red Seven, opened just a few weeks ago in West Hollywood's Pacific Design Center and the early reports are mainly positive.
The best seats at the Atlanta Express are at the bar, which fronts the completely open kitchen. The staff seems to have a good time and the service is good. But the food does not live up to Puck's motto, "Live, Love, Eat!" Let's change that to "Live, Love, Eat Elsewhere!"
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Cliff, Cliff Cliff, when will you food writers ever learn? Chefs do not care about these outlets of theirs - look at Emerils in Atlanta. A Disgrace. I have had some of the worst service in my life at Bouchon in Napa (TK's ever expanding empire). Still, it's amusing, downright funny and disgusting (all at once) when I remember the summer that both Emeril and Puck came to Atlanta. Big hype by the food media. Any true, lasting changes in the Atlanta culinary scene since their arrival? They don't care. They want to make money. How about writing some real stories about chefs who really have respect for their craft, that have respect for ingredients and those who provide them? Rant over.
We recently stopped in after a trip to Borders. Our lunch was pretty mediocre. A so-so salad and blah lasagna. The place is looking a little shabby, too. The banquettes across the back wall were badly in need of some repair. I've eaten at other Expresses and Grand Cafes when traveling and this didn't measure up.