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Wednesday, October 31, 2007

Coolest place I've visited in weeks


Meet David Sweeney, proprietor of the new Dynamic Dish (427 Edgewood Ave., 404-688-4344) in the Sweet Auburn District. Sweeney, an Army brat, has spent most of his life in Germany, returning to the United States just three months ago. "Yes, I feel like a foreigner," he says. "I know nothing."

Sweeney's shop is about the coolest place I've hit since Zennubian opened in Castleberry Hill. He prepares one entree daily and three or four sandwiches. Everything is made with organic produce, like this tagine (above) featuring pumpkin, peppers, fennel and chickpeas over cous cous. That's a glass of pomegranate tea, sweetened with agave syrup (safe for diabetics), with the tagine.

Sandwiches today included a tofu club with tempeh bacon, tomatoes and lettuce on whole wheat with Russian dressing and a rosemary-roasted tofu wrap with roasted carrots and onions with pine-nut pesto. Sweeney says he's "meat-friendly," even though none of the dishes today included a meat.

Sweeney admits he was a bit optimistic in choosing Edgewood Avenue for his cafe. Open since early September, he was serving a larger menu of take-out dishes but walk-in trade in the transitional 'hood didn't warrant more than his present menu.

There's plenty nearby that's prospering, though, including Javaology and Rolling Bones. (In fact, several restaurants are opening in the area during the next few months, including one by popular bartender Chris Lopez at 327 Edgewood. The still-to-be-named restaurant will serve "hearty American food," according to Lopez. Matt Ruppert, one of the operators of the Big Gay Supper Club, is also opening a restaurant in the area.)

Sweeney also works the local organic markets, selling prepared dishes. He is open daytimes only and is revising his hours now, so call ahead before visiting. And good luck finding the place. It is as inconspicuous as it could be, in a nondescript building (right) next to a thrift store. The interior (above), however, is spare and elegant, with a few communal tables.

I'll write more in Grazing in a few weeks. Meantime, go to lunch there!

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