Friday, November 2, 2007
Restaurants Please don't call it 'surf 'n' turf'
Posted by Cliff Bostock @cliffbostock on Fri, Nov 2, 2007 at 8:30 PM
The dish above is the tastiest thing I've eaten in some time. It's an appetizer at Wisteria (471 N. Highland Ave., 404-525-3363), a restaurant that doesn't get as much attention as it deserves, especially since chef/owner Jason Hill was ahead of many others in town in promoting creative Southern cooking.
The dish includes three sea scallops over braised pork belly and radicchio. The sauce is a bourbon-molasses reduction. The flavors surprised me. I was expecting the molasses to counter the bitter radicchio with a blast of sweetness. Actually, the molasses's own bitterness toys with the radicchio's while furnishing an adult sweetness, thanks in part to the bourbon. Meanwhile, the vaguely sweet scallops are complemented by the earthy pork belly.
That was just the start of a great meal with great service. I'll be reporting on it next week in Grazing.
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