Friday, January 11, 2008

Cuerno to open Sunday, Beleza changes menu

Posted By on Fri, Jan 11, 2008 at 4:59 PM


Cuerno, Riccardo Ullio's long-awaited Spanish restaurant, opens Sunday night after an invitation-only preview this evening, Friday.

The new restaurant is located next door to Ullio's latest, Beleza, which we visited to try out the new chef, Ken Bouche, who has kind of de-weirded the menu. The sous-vide fish is gone and some much more substantial dishes have been added, including oxtail stew and a Brazilian shrimp stew that features the very unique taste of extra-virgin red palm oil.

The reason for the changes is mainly about cost. Ullio said people complained that the menu of small plates was too expensive and not filling enough. So he's cut back the effort to make everything organic, as well as adding the more filling dishes.

Still, the comparatively light grains, such as the farro with heirloom beans and smoked San Marzano tomatoes pictured here, are delicious. A black rice dish is even better.

Of course, I had to try the new dessert of chocolate aphrodisiacs. You'll have to read next week's Grazing to learn what a sexual savage I became after eating the stuff.

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