Perhaps you didn't know that I wrote my doctoral dissertation on the obsession with phallic imagery. I used analysis of the obsession and the image itself to demonstrate a rapprochement between some competing critical discourses. So I have a keen eye for the subliminal phallus.
I wonder if those with an unschooled eye can see the phallic imagery in these two food-related videos. Just curious.
[kml_flashembed movie="http://www.youtube.com/v/Gp2JKXBhP6M" width="425" height="350" wmode="transparent" /]
[kml_flashembed movie="http://www.youtube.com/v/1N-6-yRIsNE" width="425" height="350" wmode="transparent" /]
Stella Neighborhood Trattoria (563 Memorial Drive, 404-688-4238) has opened in Grant Park and my first impression was quite positive. We went the first night it was open to the public, something I rarely do, and the staff was on its toes and the food was good.
The owner is Rich Chey, who also operates Doc Chey's Noodle House and Osteria 832 Pasta & Pizza. I'm fond of the latter. It's an inexpensive trattoria but has plenty of sophisticated flourishes. The same is true of Stella.
The restaurant is serving only its "base menu" right now but will soon add a menu of seasonal specialties and desserts. It will be hard to get me to eat anything but the short ribs with root vegetables braised in red wine -- an exceptional version at a low price (above right). The cod and potato fritters are, um, stellar, too.
The restaurant features the extra-long bar (top photo) that most new restaurants seem to be featuring. I assume this trend is a reflection of how alcohol sales are up to 70 percent of many restaurants' sales these days, according to a friend in the industry. But it may also reflect the trend to eat at bars, something I've always enjoyed.
I'll have more to say about Stella in next week's Grazing column.
This just in from Shaun's:
Chef Shaun Doty continues his monthly special dinner series catering to those with Celiac disease on the second Sunday of every month. The next dinner will be held Sunday, March 9, and will feature a prix fixe, gluten-free and wheat-free menu for $45 and $65 with beer pairings. The nightly changing á la carte menu will also be available.
The appetizer will include English pea soup with Spring garlic flan and Bentonâs Smokehouse Bacon. The intermezzo will feature Scottish salmon with star anise oil, cabbage and Asian pear. The entrée will be duck leg confit with champagne sauerkraut and braised endive. Lastly, the dessert will include first-of-the-season strawberries with English double cream and vanilla sorbet.Celiac disease is a digestive disease that damages the small intestine and interferes with absorption of nutrients from food. People who have celiac disease cannot tolerate the gluten protein, found in wheat, rye and barley. Gluten is found mainly in foods but may also be found in everyday products, such as stamp and envelope adhesive, medicines and vitamins. When people with celiac disease eat foods or use products containing gluten, their immune system responds by damaging the small intestine.
For more information, call 404-577-4358 or visit www.shaunsrestaurant.com.
I paid a visit to Fox Bros. B-B-Q (1238 DeKalb Ave., 404-577-4030) this week. Besides craving some 'cue, I was curious to see if anything had changed. After my first visit in September, I reported finding the brisket way too dry, despite the great flavor. Then I returned and found it moist and fork-tender.
Other critics reported the same experience. The pulled pork likewise varied from dry to moist. So I ordered the combo plate (shown here) with both meats, collards and black-eyed peas, a special. Once again, the brisket was way too dry but the pulled pork was borderline. The collards and peas were awesome.
I don't understand the broad range in quality. I lived in Texas and do not remember the brisket exhibiting this much inconsistency at my favorite restaurants. An antidote, although sacrilegious, is to buy the 'cue to go and soak it overnight in the restaurant's good sauce. This basically turns it into moist Georgia-style barbecue.
I like the restaurant and its staff, but I'm mystified.
I just spoke to someone over at Green Olive Media, Joel's PR firm, who said that the plan is for Joel to remain open after Joel Antunes moves to New York. The restaurant's chef de cuisine, Cyrille Holota, will likely run the kitchen once Antunes relocates for his new position at the Oak Room in the Plaza Hotel.
While the main draw of Joel is, um ... Joel, the restaurant is familiar with operating without the presence of the man himself. Antunes traveled frequently during the past few years while the restaurant was open.
The baristas at the Ansley Starbucks were all, um, eagerly anticipating the much publicized closing of more than 7,000 stores for three hours at 5:30 p.m. Tuesday. The purpose was for all employees to undergo training ordered by Howard Schultz, the company's recently reappointed CEO, to recapture the "soul of the past," according to the New York Times.
Actually, Schultz wouldn't call it training. He told employees via a video message: âThis is not about training. This is about the love and compassion and commitment that we all need to have for the customer.â Oh yeah! In a memo a year ago, he talked about losing âmuch of the romance and theaterâ at the shops that seem to dot the corner of every urban intersection.
Actually, the Times reports that sales have been slacking at Starbucks and the company is closing 100 shops, including one here on North Highland Avenue. It has also cut back expansion plans.
I asked the Starbucks baristas Tuesday what there was to learn about making espresso when the shop uses an automated machine. One explained that the barista can still control certain factors that affect the taste of the drink. One of those, certainly, is the steaming of milk. It's very true that some baristas seem more talented at that than others.
It seems Joel Antunes, chef and owner of the newly renovated Joel restaurant, is moving to New York to become the new head chef at the Oak Room in the Plaza Hotel. You can read the New York Post article about the deal here.
I have a call in to Joel's publicists to see if the Atlanta restaurant is closing ... we'll keep you posted.
Duck-Rabbit Brown Ale
The Duck-Rabbit Craft Brewery
Farmville, N.C.
5.6% ABV
Paul Philipponâs line of dark beers brewed in the little eastern North Carolina town of Farmville is now available in Georgia. The brown ale is a nicely balanced version of the style that exhibits the nutty-sweet malt flavor of the traditional style, while ramping up the spicy, citrus hop bitterness as befits the American interpretation of classic British ales. Chestnut brown with great clarity and a persistent head, this is a clean, easy drinking brew. Toasted grains, walnuts, allspice, and a slightly smoky finish combine for a satisfying taste that pairs great with a burger or other grilled meats.
(Photo by Jeff Holland)
I got this from an AOL story of reader-submitted uses for food. I can vouch for the hiccup cure â it's what we use in our house.
"Peanut Butter is great for removing crayon off of wallpaper. It won't fade the color." -- June"30-some years ago, I remember going to a 50's style dance and putting an incredible amount of vaseline in my hair to keep it slicked back. Well, the next day trying desparately to get the vaseline out, we called a beauty shop and they recommended PEANUT BUTTER. And by golly it worked." -- CK
"If you place a small amount of peanut butter on a boil that won't come to a head (or any white-head for that matter) and cover with a bandaid overnight, it should be raised by morning." -- Ali
"Peanut butter is great for taking rings and age spots off of wooden furniture. Just smear on area, let stand a bit and then wipe off. Do not use fat free; only the real thing will do." -- Alice
" Peanut butter (creamy) is an excellent product for removing tar from the areas on your car. Just apply to a soft cloth and rub to dissolve the tar. Remove any leftover residue with soap and water." -- Don
"Does pitch from pine trees ever get on your car? It's so hard to get off -- unless you rub peanut butter over it. Usea paper towel, rub in a circular motion and to get the peanut butter off your paint finish, just wash the area with warm sudsy water." -- Marianne
"Peanut butter makes a great quick fix for the hiccups. Eating 1/2 to 1 tablespoon should do the trick. Used it for years and it works every time!" -- Amy
"Polish stainless steel with peanut butter. Smear a thin layer of peanut butter on the stainless steel. Let dry thoroughly and then buff out with a cloth, exactly like you would use paste wax topolish a car." -- Ron
"Try rubbing peanut butter on leather furniture to get out pen marks, grease and dirt stains. Works great on leather car seats as well." -- Rick
"Peanut butter removes the scratches out of Plexiglas. I had a boat and used it to rub minor scratches out of the windshield and it works great." -- Tammi
"Peanut butter is great for removing gum from shoes, shirts, and even from your hair." -- Cathy
You can read the whole story here. I especially like the special uses for Coke. Anything that kills aphids and "cuts through grease and dirt" sounds like a stellar thing to drink by the big-gulp cup.
Decatur is the site of two beer dinners next week.
On Tuesday, March 4, at 6:00 p.m. the Brick Store Pub will play host to another in the series of "Terrapin & Friends" beer dinners, this one featuring beers from Terrapin Beer Company and Lagunitas Brewing Company of Petaluma, Calif. The beer offerings will include Terrapin Wake-n-Bake, a vertical tasting of Lagunitas' Hairy Eyeball and a cask of Terrapin India Brown aged on pinot noir-soaked oak chips. Tickets are $55. Call 404-687-0990 for details.
On Thursday, March 6, the Twain's beer dinner originally scheduled for early February will take place. The dinner will be an opportunity for the brewpub to try out its new Randall, a contraption that pulls beer through a tube stuffed with fresh hops. The menu includes Gorgonzola with fig marmalade paired with a Randallized Sleepy Conscience ESB, neo-classic Belgian mussels paired with Captain Stormfield Abbey Ale, seared pork chop and apple chutney paired with a barrel-aged strong ale, and a Three Lies Imperial Stout vanilla-bean ice cream float. Tickets are $50, which includes gratuity and tax.