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Monday, February 11, 2008

Free forms, Southern-style

Posted By on Mon, Feb 11, 2008 at 6:44 PM

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OK, I've experienced lollipop design at Loca Luna and the pinwheel look at Edgewood Corner Tavern. Now it's free forms at Noche (1000 Virginia Ave., 404-815-9155) in Virginia-Highland.

It's been quite a while since I dined at this tapas venue that is part of Tom Catherall's Here to Serve conglomerate that includes Twist, Shout, Lola, Goldfish and more.

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The menu here includes quite a few Southern-style small plates, such as chipotle-flavored pulled pork layered with corn cakes and topped with a bouffant of tangled onion rings drizzled with barbecue sauce (top photo).

We also encountered fried green tomatoes with marinara-like sauce and shaved Manchego cheese (above, right), and a wood-grilled pork chop served with poblano-spiked mashed potatoes in a phyllo wrapper (left).

Compared to the dishes you find at most tapas joints, these are heavy eating.

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