Monday, May 5, 2008
Restaurants A Southern-style gastro-pub
Posted by Cliff Bostock @cliffbostock on Mon, May 5, 2008 at 8:16 PM
We've had some good meals lately — at Home, Spice Market and the latest gastro-pub, Holeman and Finch Public House (2277 Peachtree Rd., 404-948-1175). This is at the Aramore, opposite Restaurant Eugene, whose owner/chef, Linton Hopkins, is one of the owners here too, along with his popular bartender, Greg Best. Tony Seichrist, the original chef at the Farmhouse at Serenbe, is chef here.
Hopkins, who was an Iron Chef contestant, is all about Southern cooking and some of the dishes on H&F's menu of small plates are unexpected and witty regional throwbacks.
Here, for example, is a serving of fried pig tails and ears, served with a barbecue sauce.
And there's fried bologna — that's "baloney" to Southerners — but this is a house-made version.
Not everything is Southern, although the quail egg atop this (fabulous) steak tartare might be considered as such. This was our favorite dish, after a bowl of Hen of the Woods mushrooms served over polenta.
This dish was amazing — a cracked beef femur with melt-in-your-mouth marrow to spread on country bread. I didn't much care for the onion-parsley salad, but it was easily brushed aside.
A plate of fennel, grilled and tossed in olive oil — simple, juicy, sweet, a springtime favorite.
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Don't tell me--Ana is probably a vegetarian. I'm not overly keen on the meat products myself, but I can appreciate that those dishes look great even if I have to live vicariously through my meat-eating fiance'.
The "souse"/head cheese dish was great and my husband loved the sardine spread, though it was a little much for me. The salad with candied bacon was excellent as was the Crunchy Gentleman (also know as the best grilled ham and cheese you've ever eaten). Good wine list and fun service.
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