Friday, June 13, 2008

Satisfy your 2 a.m. trailer-park reefer munchies

Posted By on Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 10:30 PM

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We dined at The Feed Store in College Park last Saturday. The restaurant has been open a few years but has gotten a good bit of buzz lately because of its new chef, Peter Golaszewski, who attracted a strong following for his work at the defunct Epicurean.

Golaszewki is preparing "nouveau Southern" dishes like a spread of black eyed peas spiked with a hint of truffle oil (above), offered as an amuse bouche. We also sampled a catfish spread served on a mosaic drawn with balsamic honey and flavored oils (right). Both were yummy.

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The most interesting entrée (and the most expensive at $27) was a rich, tender short rib that was batter-fried after roasting. It was served with mustard gravy seasoned with roasted shallots.

All entrées come with unusual vegetables, which can also be ordered on an entrée plate. My favorite was potatoes mashed with mustard greens and pimento cheese — worthy of a 2 a.m. attack of reefer munchies in a trailer park. I also liked the strange, almost excessively sweet beet puree flavored with vanilla and straightforward asparagus. Another side, crawfish pancakes, was also delicious.

I'll have more to say in next week's Grazing column.

(Photos by Cliff Bostock)

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