Thursday, July 24, 2008
Restaurants New lunch menu at the Globe
Posted by Cliff Bostock @cliffbostock on Thu, Jul 24, 2008 at 2:35 AM
I've been worried about The Globe ever since Govantez Lowndes, one of the owners, disappeared without explanation. Lowndes brought natural elegance to the restaurant and it's a bit odd to go there now and not see him.
Since Lowndes' departure, one of my foodie friends complains that the restaurant "becomes more mainstream by the day," even though Joshua Perkins is still the chef. I'm not sure I agree but I was surprised when I lunched there Tuesday and found it so packed that there was a wait for a table. I've never had that experience at the Globe before. So, if there's any marketing to the "mainstream," it seems to be working.
Perkins has created a new daytime menu for summer that seems more comprehensive than earlier ones. My friend Daryl White, an anthropologist who specializes in the culture of food, and I both ate well at the bar Tuesday. (I'll be posting my interview with Daryl in a few days.)
I ordered a dish called "Love Letters" (above, right). It featured beef pulled from short ribs and layered with tender pappardelle and Swiss chard. My only complaint is that there wasn't more of the fresh grated horseradish that seasons the dish. I really only ran into it in one bite.
Daryl ordered black grouper in a pool of raw almond and coconut milk with mango and papaya pickles (top photo). He enjoyed it, but my taste of it, a bit bland, made me happy I'd settled on the short rib, which, by the way, our server/bartender said was the restaurant's "best value." It was indeed filling.
The Globe remains one of the best looking restaurants in our city.
(Photos by Cliff Bostock)
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