Omnivore - Somali cooking in Decatur

Taking a tip from Operation ABECEDarian Eateries, written by a trumpet player and an ecologist, we had one of our most interesting dining expeditions in months when we visited Daru Ssalam Halal Restaurant this weekend.

This is a no-frills operation serving Somali cooking by owner Mohamed S. Ali, a longtime banquet chef for Marriott Hotels.

Closely related to Ethiopian food — Mr. Ali is Ethiopian himself — Somali cuisine also has an Italian influence, owing to a period of occupation. There are dishes literally featuring spaghetti, along with keke which includes chicken and broad “noodles” made of wheat tortilla flour in a savory sauce.

The most unfamiliar dish we ordered was ugali (left), white cubes that tasted like grits, served with kidney beans and spinach.

Half the menu, oddly, is American dishes.

Look for a review in an upcoming Grazing column.

Meanwhile, if you want to visit the restaurant, which is open for breakfast as well as lunch and dinner, it is at 4746 Memorial Dr., Decatur, in a small strip center next to a Dunkin’ Donuts. Phone: 404-298-3440.

(Photos by Cliff Bostock)