Wednesday, August 13, 2008
Food & Life / Food media Guest blogger: Burger economy
Posted by Besha Rodell @BeshaRodell on Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 9:05 PM
Haute vs. Budget
By Lindsey Zuckerman
In years past, burgers weren’t served at fancy restaurants and toppings didn’t get much more exciting than cheese, bacon or chili. But today, you can find burgers at all price points with a huge array of possible ingredients and toppings. Of course these haute cuisine burgers come at a price, so you better save up for a $16 wagyu beef burger at Shaun’s or a $150 double truffle burger at DB Bistro Moderne in NY.
So, is there cause for burgers to cost more than $8? The Wall Street Journal doesn’t think so. It called the Ghetto Burger at Ann’s Snack Bar the best burger in America, and there is nothing fancy about it. Ann’s is an old school hole-in-the- wall that serves up big, sloppy burgers. For less than half the price of a fancy-pants Kobe beef burger, Ann will serve up two-giant patties topped with bacon, American cheese, and chili. It’s a delicious mess.
Still hungry? Try a Vortex Black and Blue burger for $7.95 or go super old-school with a Varsity Glorified Burger for less than two bucks.
If there are so many great, cheap burgers, why are gourmet burgers suddenly showing up everywhere? I think top chefs are looking to make their mark on an American classic. By tweaking the ingredients, chefs can create something entirely new and yet completely familiar. Also, as the economy tanks, burgers make for great, nostalgic comfort food. It’s impossible to be in a bad mood when you’re sinking your teeth into a quarter-pound of juicy meat, even if it costs $15!
When chefs get haute burgers right– as they do at Shaun’s and Holeman and Finch – the results are well worth an extra few bucks. Holeman and Finch’s burger has attracted much attention lately, and for good reason. It’s juicy, fatty, utterly scrumptious and worth every penny. Top notch ingredients are what make these burgers so expensive, but it’s those very ingredients that make them so tasty.
More expensive doesn’t always equate more delicious, of course, but more often than not highly skilled chefs at top restaurants are coming up with worthwhile versions of the humble hamburger. The ultra-haute burgers, complete with gold flakes, truffles or fois gras, are another story. If you’re on an expense account, go for it, otherwise, consider these more of an attention-grabbing gimmick than anything else.
Atlanta is chock full of great burgers, which is why I was so sad to see Hardee’s and Ted’s Montana Grill named as Atlanta’s best in recent polls. Seriously? I assure you that Atlanta’s best burger is not found at a chain restaurant. Whether you’re ideal burger is more Vortex low-key or Rathbun’s Steak high-end, there’s a burger for every taste and budget these days. And if you’re like me, you’ll want to try them all.
You can read Lindsey Zuckerman’s food blog at www.adventuroustastes.blogspot.com. If you’re interested in being a guest blogger for Omnivore, please email me your ideas at besha.rodell@creativeloafing.com.
(photo from Wikimedia commons)
Comments (2)
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I agree that it is kind of sad that fast food burgers would make a "best of" Atlanta poll. It's not because fast food is automatically bad (anyone who has had an In-n-Out burger out west knows that fast food burgers can be great), but because a burger at Hardees (however good you may think it is) is not unique to Atlanta. In a town already overrun with stripmalls and chain stores, it's nice when we can celebrate something that is uniquely Atlanta. Nice work, guest blogger.
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