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Saturday, October 11, 2008

Shaun Doty becomes a master of his domain at Shaun's

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Now it can be told – the true story of my feelings about Shaun Doty's cooking.

Don't worry, there's nothing really negative about it. I have enjoyed Doty's work ever since he was chef at Mumbo Jumbo. That restaurant, you'll recall, had Guenter Seeger on board as consulting chef. Doty had worked for Seeger when he was chef of the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead.

After Doty left the Dining Room, he landed at restaurants in France and Belgium, then returned to the States. After two gigs elsewhere, he returned to run the kitchen at Mumbo Jumbo at Seeger's behest. He then went on to open MidCity Cuisine, then Table 1280, and in 2006, Shaun's (1029 Edgewood Ave., 404-577-4358) in Inman Park. I believe he has shared ownership in all of these restaurants except Table 1280.

So, Doty has a resume nearly as giddy as Richard Blais', and I used to make the same complaint about him as others currently lodge against Blais -- that he never stayed anywhere long enough to get really focused. Doty has a rep as something of a society dude, often showing up in pictures of convocations of the beautiful people. His restaurants have always seemed to attract that crowd and, knowing their insatiable taste for the nouveau, I've wondered if Doty's peripatetic resume is a reflection of that.

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