Omnivore - Two visits to Flip

I’ve been to Flip, Richard Blais’ new restaurant, and I’ve seen the future of the hamburger...and the milkshake.

Two visits, with six other people, have allowed me to sample just about all of the menu, which I’ll be reviewing in my Grazing column week after next.

A few random observations:

Make a reservation! I had 30-minute waits on  Friday afternoon and Monday night. Yes, that’s right. The most deserted night of the week in Atlanta restaurants is packed at Flip.

Best regular sides: The smoked Caesar salad with a couple of amazing tempura-fried anchovies and the fried rutabagas.

Best milkshake: The Nutella with burnt marshmallows. The Krispy Kreme, which literally includes a blended doughnut, was way too sweet for my taste.  Not that I didn’t consume every drop.

Best burger: So far, my favorite has been the “lamburger” with green-olive relish, cucumber yogurt, raisin ketchup and mint. A close second is the Southern one, “country-fried” and topped with pimento cheese and green-tomato ketchup (above).

Best non-meat burger: Maybe the codfish with malt vinegar, tartar sauce and pea-shoot salad.

Best hair: Richard Blais’ faux-hawk has grown to wonderfully Eraser-Head dimensions. He said he’s been unable to find the time to do anything but cook, so the broken windshield wiper on his car and his hair remain unattended. My server during my first visit, Neil McCarty (left), swore that Blais is not requiring other staffers to share his hairstyle. It’s just a coincidence that Neil, who I think typifies the spirit of the new “burger boutique,” shares the look.