Saturday, January 24, 2009
Restaurants Cheap Eats: Chef Arnaud Berthelier's burger menu at the Ritz Carlton Buckhead
Posted by Jennifer Zyman on Sat, Jan 24, 2009 at 3:00 PM
There's no debating the burger trend sweeping the country. One could say the economy’s dive has stimulated our craving for nostalgic — and cheap — foods. Whatever the case, Americans are burger crazy and Atlanta chefs are cashing in.
Arnaud Berthelier, executive chef at the Dining Room at the Ritz Carlton in Buckhead (3434 Peachtree Road, 404-237-2700. www.ritzcarlton.com), is one of the newest players on the burger scene. The Dining Room has long been a paragon of excellence, but who can actually afford the extravagance these days? Berthelier has debuted a special burger menu with optional beer pairings by sommelier Robert Evans and manager Claude Guillaume for the Lobby Lounge, available daily from 11 a.m. to midnight. So you can get a piece of the action for a relatively cheap price, considering the Dining Room’s tasting menu starts at $90 per person.
Burgers are served on buttery brioche buns and all — minus the sliced duck confit burger — are made with Strube Ranch American Kobe beef custom-ground to the chef’s specifications. Each burger, except for the Cadillac, comes with golden waffle-cut fries.
Prices start at $16 for the Classic, a monstrous hand-formed patty of juicy beef topped with gooey and earthy Vermont cheddar, crunchy slices of Applewood bacon, and mayo with a hint of sherry. The Rivieria ($18) is just as hearty as its mates, but lighter in impact thanks to the peppery arugula, tangy tomato confit, mozzarella and Parmesan. If you do decide to splurge, there's the $65 Deluxe, made with seared foie gras, sliced truffle, aged Comté, bibb lettuce and merlot sauce.
The only downside to the burgers is their presentation. Each creation is placed in a narrow paper-lined poplar box that, while slick, makes the eating experience cumbersome. It can be difficult to extract the burger with all of its components intact, but the flavor is well worth the work.
(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)
Comments (12)
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True dat. Lords know these days I've got $16 bucks burning in the pocket for a burger.
Yea, instead let's wait 2 hours for a table at Flip and spend the same for 2 sliders, but not complain about the price because--oh my gawd!--it's Richard top chef blais!!!!!! Or you can go to Krystal
I love burgers, and I love having a less expensive option at good restaurants, but are they the cupcakes of 2009?
I can assure you I won't wait two hours for anything at Flip or ever go to Krystal. But I will go to Ritz to try a burger. I also agree that calling the burger there "cheap eats" is a bit of stretch.
I won't bring it up again, but I agree that calling a $16 burger cheap eats. Maybe if you have an expense account, but if you're a working schmo like myself, then it sure isn't.
I went to Flip on Friday and didn't wait at all -- sat immediately at the bar. It was lunchtime, though... Excellent burgers!
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