Omnivore - From gas station to gastro pub

You’d never think we were on the verge of a second Great Depression — or that it was Sunday night in the Bible Belt, for that matter — last night at the new Leon’s Full Service in Decatur (131 E. Ponce de Leon Ave., 404-687-0500). The place was packed with a 30-minute wait for a table.

Leon’s is owned by the same folks who operate the very popular Brick Store Pub. The menu at Leon’s is far more ambitious, making the former gas station a gastro pub.

Generally, we found entrees better than starters. My favorite dish of the evening was this plate of Niman Ranch pork osso-bucco with sweet cubes of butternut squash mingled with slightly bitter, buttery kale and a jus flavored with  Gordon India Pale Ale.

You’ll find about 15 interesting beers on draft here, including a raspsberry-flavored one from Belgium.

More in my next Grazing column.

(Photos by Cliff Bostock)