Monday, February 23, 2009
Restaurants Knife's Edge: Richard Blais takes on CL as his newest project
Posted by Richard Blais on Mon, Feb 23, 2009 at 12:54 PM
Almost ten years ago, I remember anxiously awaiting the latest copy of Creative Loafing, with what was to be my first mention in an Atlanta paper. OK, any paper, unless you count my hometown local that had written about how fast I got pinned as a high school wrestler. It would be just a quick mention in CL. The tiniest blurb, but the type of thing that a young chef dreams of. I remember driving to Fellini’s to see if the print edition had been released. After four visits and scouring the distributing cases up and down Peachtree Street with no luck, I finally went back to my apartment.
After midnight, I woke up and went out again. It was easy to bounce up and go because I slept with my clothes on, with my television playing, stuck on the Food Network, and with whatever celebrity chef’s book du jour sprawled out over my chest.
I never got that mention. After all the waiting and anxiety, the blurb just mentioned the name of the restaurant, the owners and, of course, the name of the previous chef. Oh well.
Later that night I headed into work. Very early. Bakers’ hours. I prepared the restaurant for lunch service and set everything up. All the stations. Every sauce strained twice, and every nine pan filled. The grill on. The protein portioned. The menu printed. The side towels neatly folded and anally arranged on every cook’s cutting board. The dishes washed. Breakfast made for the staff. Coffee brewed.
The sun hadn’t even come up yet.
It was a time I remember well. And it’s in that spirit, the one of the hard working, young chef, that I embark on this new adventure, almost 10 years later.
Today of course, I don’t get to any of my projects before sunrise. I’ve given away almost all of my cookbooks, seriously. Google alerts make sure that every tiny blurb about any Richard Blais (and there are a lot, as Blais is a very common name in Montreal) gets to me instantly. And I’ll taste the sauces, but don’t usually make them. It’s a different life. Not necessarily any easier, but different.
Truth is, I have Atlanta to thank for this different life. This city, and the people who’ll be reading this paper. In thanks, I hope to over time give you some insight into the world of a chef. I don’t want to write about the molecular deconstruction of a carrot at 85 degree Celsius. Boring. And I don’t want to discuss walk-in hookups, or why you should eat seafood on Tuesdays. Fun, but not me. Instead, I might write about what a restaurant and chef go through in the days preceding a major review. Why kitchens and locker rooms are quite similar. Or why the ultimate struggle for any chef is the balance of quality vs. profit. I’ll attempt to give you my insight to those questions and answer yours.
I’ll field as many questions as I can. I’ll take some harsh critique from real people behind ridiculous screen names. And hopefully add a dash of something, although I’m not sure what, to an already formidable team.
The rules are simple. I won’t be writing about any of my projects in Atlanta. My boss, my “chef”, my editor, the food critic, who I’ve sworn profanity at from the comfort of my own kitchens at times, won’t have it. And neither will I.
It’s quite funny actually. How many text messages have I sent outlining my theory that bloggers aren’t really “writers”? And now with all the intended irony, I’m a “writer”.
But I know for certain this time that I’ll be seeing my name in the paper. Unless this is some sort of culinary Punk’d (it has crossed my mind).
Maybe I’ll be able to sleep this time. With an early bedtime, and from my family home in Candler Park, not my bachelor’s flat in Peachtree Battle.
But, this is very much like 10 years ago. I’m still anxious to see my name in Creative Loafing...
Comments (31)
Showing 1-31 of 31
All due respect to your abilities in a kitchen, you're not "a writer". You're a restauranteur with a writing gig.
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Blais I look forward to reading your contributions to creative loafing and I enjoy your honest approach! I don't know you but I'm so proud of how well you have represented Atlanta in Top Chef and how you have given Atlanta a fantastic burger joint! All due respect Truman Capote, but a writer is anyone who creates an authentic written work.
All due respect, Stefanie, Mr. Blais used quotation marks. In addition, I refer you to the American Heritage Dictionary - writer - n. A person who writes as an occupation. I make a mean eggplant parmigiana and my sausage and peppers frittata is pretty freakin' good, but that doesn't make me Artie Buco, who by the way isn't really a chef; he's a character in a TV series. It seems to me the folks who chow down at Dick's beanery are probably more concerned with his culinary abilities, as opposed to his writing chops.
when someone wants to start paying for your eggplant parm, we'll let you be a professional cook (get the food cost, inventory, management, and something more creative than plant parm down, then maybe we'll go with "chef") As your dictionary says, a writer is a person who writes as an occupation. occupation - the source of one's livlihood. he's getting paid, so suck it. even if he wasn't, an occupation can be an avocation as well ("an activity taken up in addition to one's regular work or profession, usually for enjoyment; a hobby") so suck it again. Stop trying to start some crap on a forum. with no respect, keep sucking it.
Who's brilliant idea was this? So we get to read RB talk about himself in an article every week?
You're reading-or have read- Blais's post. Ergo, you have made it noteworthy. Ridiculous comments aside, rock on, Mr. Blais.
Just to continue piling on Truman Capote: The word is properly spelled "restaurateur" -- no N.
Will your future posts take the form of some sort of flavored foam?
Well, I *am* a writer per the definition, and I'm here to tell you: all language is evolving, and the current catalyst is Web 2.0 and associated technologies. Example: blogs. Like this one. I'm sure I could find a dictionary that would reflect that reality, but I have better things to do. Regardless of whether they get paid, people who write blogs are writers. People who write diaries are writers. (I'm not so sure all Tweeters are writers, but I'm willing to keep my mind open.) So, Mr. Blais, in my capacity as an official, dictionary-approved writer person, I bestow upon you honorary writer-ness! I sure do wish you could bestow upon me some excellent chef-ness! I completely agree with Stephanie for thanking you for representing Atlanta so well, and I'm looking forward to your postings.
Way to go Blais! You just keep going higher and higher!! BTW, to OMG, obviously you are ignorant because either you do not know who Richard Blais is, or you didn't read the part where Blais specifically says he will not be talking about himself in any present or future writings. Anyways..Keep up the great work Blais! I will be heading to FLIP soon!
congrats, blais!!! i look forward to reading whatever you have to say, however you choose to say it ~ and w/ out regards to your title. ^_^
Blais Thanks for keeping it real, like you wrote once "some people win the golden egg other get the hen"
I am a huge fan of your restaurant and your time on Top Chef. I tried to post this on your Bravo Blog: The top three should have been Stefan, Jeff, Carla/Fabio (either one would have worked). Hosea had no reason to be there. And Leah should have been gone by episode three.(hearing her butcher the english language by using LIKE so much makes me understand why she could so poorly butcher her proteins). Stefan was obviously crass, but he had heart... helping Carla shuck her oysters in the first NO episode, which the Producers conveniently avoided showing us... schmucks. What's funny about the judges, not to repeat what all has been said here, was that when Gail ate Stefan's 2nd dish, she said she could "taste his story", could tell where he "lived as a child"; and THEN she proceeds to say his food has no soul a few minutes later. That is offensively contradictory to Stefan and the viewing audience. I know we all tolerated the forced product placement in the beginning because we got the chance to see young great chefs dazzle and dance with ingredients producing exciting and brave dishes that compelled us to go out to eat an extra night per week, or try that new restaurant we have heard about across town, or buy that new ingredient at the farmers market to bring home to play with in our own kitchen, but no more. As the seasons have progressed (with a few exceptions of greatness, I'M LOOKING AT YOU BLAIS, your joint FLIP is the best new Restaurant in ATLANTA, been there twice already, YOU ROCK!), the food and entertainment value feels a little too "focus-group" produced. They dump on Stefan for having no soul... can Top Chef ever be so audacious to make that critique again?
I look forward to reading! FlIP is GREAT! I think I go about 6 times a month and I just can't get enough. Well done!
Congratulations on the additional gig! You have a great voice for this type of project. I look forward to reading :)
It is obvious to anymore who watches Top Chef, you are the reason Hosea won. He has marginal talent. Although, he was smart to chose you to help him. He is a hack who did not deserve to win. It was all your doing!
Can't wait to read more. Totally love the drama, good or bad. Not that I always agree but... I love Cliff's writing,Cristiane Lauderbach, the AJC writers and Besha & Jennifer, read them feverishly waiting for that one snippet of mention...Can't wait to read from a chef's perspective,(he) having been the little guy and grown into SuperBlais...and Candler Park is a cool shout out!!
RB: Happily I married a gal with family in Atlanta, so someday we'll be out there and can direct the crowd to your place. For us amateur chefs, WTF is a "nine pan" and what's it filled with before dawn? Enquiring minds want to know...
Richard, here's a serious question which I hope you'll give adequate attention: what's with all the foie gras? For those who aren't aware, this so-called delicacy--increasingly common on menus around Atlanta and of course the key ingredient of Blais' notorious milkshake, as well as one of his burgers at Flip--is typically made by the force-feeding of geese, with (most agree) many detrimental physical and psychological effects upon the animals. (An EU report cited in the wikipedia article I mention below, 'examines several indicators of animal welfare, including physiological indicators, liver pathology, and mortality rate [and] strongly concludes that "force feeding, as currently practised, is detrimental to the welfare of the birds."'.) Now, whatever one's position on the consumption of animals in general, it does seem especially pernicious to me that this particularly cruel practice is tacitly endorsed by restaurateurs who, knowing the provenance of their product better than most, really might be expected to know better. With that in mind, of course, I can half-guess what Richard's response is likely to be, since, after all, he does serve Foie Gras at his own restaurant(s). Nonetheless, Richard, you did come across as one of the more reasonable types on Top Chef, so I'd really appreciate it if you'd tackle this question honestly and fairly. (A quick starting point for anyone who's interested in this debate: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foie_gras_controversy)
Well I think you write gud, whether or not it is your primary occupation. I've been a fan of yours for YEARS and am super stoked you're getting your time in the spotlight. I think everyone can agree that this season of TC was a terribly long story joke told by that unfunny, annoying guy you work with who keeps saying "oh wait, I messed it up, let me start over." Look forward to reading your column!
Oh, and I got side tracked. George, the fois gras argument is antiquated and about as pointless as arguing politics or religion. Is it cruel? The animals are raised for slaughter, they're not taken out of the wild into captivity where then they are tortured, they are bred to be killed and eaten. Of course it's detrimental, it's SUPPOSED to be. Don't eat it, don't buy it, but please, get over it. I, on the other hand will take your portion happily. Guess I'm not as wordly as Dispirito. Boo hoo.
Oh, good. Yet another reason not to read the Loaf anymore. When Richard's actual sucesses catch up to his failures and firings, I'll be interested. New columnist, hold the ego?
Love you, Blais! I'm a huge fan of yours since your Top Chef season. Got to eat at Home last year for my birthday celebration and saw you there- wish you'd made it to my table! Food was fabulous as I'd expected. Can't wait to read your take on dining in the atl. And George, please... let the foie gras hating go. If you truly researched all the mistreatment of the animals we eat (not just foie gras-producing geese), you'd join PETA and start tossing fake animal blood on people leaving Burlington Coat Factory a la Michael Scott. Just let bygones be bygones and eat some meat.
Richard, Welcome. Get them to add you to the list of authors you can RSS. http://atlanta.creativeloafing.com/gyrobase/Syndication DanaMc
Chef: Concur with Martha, you are a writer. You are able to draw me into your world, see through your eyes. Well appreciated and I look forward to it.
Good luck on this endeavor, Richard. Loved seeing you on Top Chef and best wishes. As a blogger who does not ever use that word to describe what I do I pass along this advice. Yes, you are now a writer but not because you are a blogger. Enjoy this new method to put your ideas out and yes, be prepared to meet lots of people named monkeyboy_fistofrage269, Blaseblazer and darthlaidher17. Welcome.
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